1960 Buick Electra225 Convertible

Up for auction is my 60 Electra225 convertible. I've had the car since 2014 and driven it several thousand miles during that time. Many new parts and repairs have been done to it since buying it, and it really is a great driver. It turns heads everywhere it goes. I will outline details of every aspect of the car below. I can also furnish additional photos of specific areas that I don't have room for here on the auction. eBay only allows 24 photos on these auctions, which I think should at least be doubled. Let me know what additional areas you would like to see, and I will do my best to photograph them. I also have a binder with virtually every receipt from when the car was new, including the original sales invoice. It has an extremely well documented history.

Body
The Electra is a good 15 footer. The paint is not original, and it was redone sometime in the 80's. It shows its age with chips and checking. The Electra225 models have additional ribbed trim along the lower section of the body, which had a tendency to catch moisture and create rust. This car is no exception. I will say that the trunk and interior floors are very solid. There is only minor perforation on the interior floor edges near the sill plates. There is significant body rust in the outer and inner rocker panels, lower cowl sections, and at the rear wheel openings. The front fenders are rotted pretty badly at the bottoms, and the doors are both in rough shape. I have secured solid fenders and doors for the car, in assumption that I would have time to tackle the body work. It just hasn't happened...but they are included with the car. I also have good rocker and cowl sections cut from the same parts car. I will say that the car has great curb appeal, even with all the rust issues. The FRAME is solid. No issues with rot there.

Chrome/Stainless
I would consider the brightwork on the car to be good driver quality. The bumpers are decent with some pitting. There are no real big dings or beat up pieces of stainless. The grille is probably the most pitted part of the chrome work.

Tires/rubber/weathershripping
It has new Coker Classic wide whiewall bias ply tires with correct 2 1/2" whitewalls. I have also powdercoated the wheels for durability. If there was one thing that drastically changed the look of this car, it was the wheels and tires. The weathershripping is intact, but would not be able to be reused if the car was disassmbled.

Chassis
As stated earlier, the frame is solid with no rot. Surface rust - yes. It's hard to find a car that doesn't have surface rust or scale on the underside that is this old. I have replaced the shocks, rear wheel bearings, some brake lines, stripped and painted the rear end and torque tube, universal joint, front stabilizer bar end links. All drums have been turned and the car stops like it should. Master cylinder and booster have been replaced, as well as the parking brake cable.

Engine/Transmission
I am typically a nut when it comes to keeping a clean engine compartment. I have not touched this one, except to clean off the dust and dirt that has accumulated over the last 56 years. The radiator was cleaned out last year. Water pump was replaced before I bought it and doesn't leak. Looking under the car, you can see that fluid seeps from the trans and engine, but it doesn't drip all over the place. The engine is a bit cold-blooded, which makes it run a little rough when cold, but once it warms up it runs very smoothly. Transmission works as it should and is very responsive for a Dynaflow. Very solid runner.

Interior
So this is the first thing that was replaced when I bought the car. I had the front and rear seats recovered, carpet replaced, and center console recovered. I was going to fix the drivers door pull, but have not removed the door panel to get it off. Door panels are one of those things you don't want to be constantly removing and reinstalling, because they have a tendency to get damaged in the process. The door panels could be redyed. This can be done fairly easily and inexpensive. That would complete the interior cleanup. All power windows run fast and smooth. The radio works and has all its buttons intact. Drivers power seat works as it should. The mileage shows 39976 but is not accurate. The speedometer cable was disconnected from the transmission when I bought it (for who knows how long) and I reconnected it. The speedo was making some terrible noises so I disassembled it and fixed the drum that was rubbing. When I had it all apart, I replaced all the bulbs in the cluster. The windshield wipers do not work, and I think it is the switch. They randomly came on one day and didn't shut off for about 5 minutes. So I know the motor works.

Convertible Top
The top goes up and down with the switch as it should. It's a little slow to start going up, but once it starts, it's fine. I had the top replaced by a friend, and he misaligned the rear top bow. There is a seam in the top that is supposed to be folded under where the bow sits, but the bow is back too far. The seam is visible at the top back corners, but does not cause any issues with water or leaking. I have a new top in the box for it, in anticipation of having it done again, but I just don't have time. I've driven the car like this for 2 years and has yet to cause problems. Otherwise, the top looks great. The top boot is a bit worn out and crusty. I don't ever use it because it has shrunken to where it barely fits on. I have it in the trunk.

Glass
Most of the glass is in great shape. The rear driver side quarter glass is cracked vertically. That particular window frame is broken on the bottom where they all break, but I have removed it and reinforced it to keep it from getting worse. The passenger side door window has a chip out of the center of it.

Trunk
The trunk is a nice representation of a good original. All the cardboard pieces are there, a bit warped, but still there and not terribly stained. The spare tire is a new Coker Classic with the same powdercoated wheel as on the rest of the car. The underside of the trunk lid is solid with only surface rust.

I always welcome and recommend that those who are interested in the car have an inspection done by a third party, or come see it if you are close by. I do my best to present the car as honestly as possible on my auctions.

I welcome all bidders worldwide. Shipping is the responsibility of the buyer. I will work with the shipping agent to arrange for pickup. If the car is not picked up within one month, I will charge $100 per month after that for storage. This is not normally a problem, but the last two cars I sold have sat here for several months. The only reason I really sell my cars is to make room for other projects. So, I need to have them picked up in a timely manner as allows. $1000 deposit due upon auction closing. Remainder will be sorted out via wire transfer or cashier's check. Cash in person is also preferred. Pickup will only be allowed once the check clears, or the wire transfer is complete.

On Oct-04-16 at 15:26:43 PDT, seller added the following information:

I made an error in the Item Specifics category regarding the engine size. It is the original 401 that matches the VIN. It does NOT have a 364. Thanks for the emails on that. Ebay is not allowing me to change that in the description, so this is the only way I can clarify.