This eBay listing will end on Saturday May 23rd at 9:00am PDT.If you have any questions at all about purchasing my car - contact me. But please read the full ad first. I am reachable at 530-919-9798 via text or calling, but please leave a voicemail if I don't answer. Or, you can leave a question on the ad and I will respond promptly.If you would like to come take a look at the car in person you are absolutely welcome to do so. If you intend to drive this car home I don't think you will have any problem doing so even if you're across the country. Of course, I can't make any guarantees, but I've daily driven this car and recently finished up a 1, 00 mile trip with no issues. Shipping is fine, but you will need to arrange it, same goes for international buyers.Also, be sure to check out all of the photos and videos below!For the full photo album click here.All of the major modifications including the engine rebuild, suspension, etc were done within the last 15, 00 miles. Many of them are much more recent than that. Mostly highway miles with the occasional spirited canyon run thrown in.Engine and Drivetrain:L28 - F54 Block P90A HeadConverted to Solid "Lifters"5 Angle Valve JobDecked BlockShaved Head+1mm Flat Top PistonsStage III Isky CamshaftPerformance Valve Springs and Retainers Resurfaced Rocker Arms - Delta CamsFull OEM Gasket KitViton Valve SealsNew M111 upgraded oil pumpNew OEM water pump12.3LB Lightweight steel flywheel OEM (Turbo) Exedy 240mm clutchPolished Front Cover1 row pulleyZTherapy SU Carbs - SM NeedlesN36 Intake Manifold w/ smog deletedStock Airbox w/ K&N Filter6-1 Ceramic Coated Headers (Painted over)2.5in Pipe to Dynomax Turbo MufflerMishimoto Aluminum Radiator and Dual Mishimoto Fans - Lifetime warranty - Fans are on a temperature sensitive switch, and also wired up to the defrost switch if you wish to manually turn them on.E12-80 Electronic Distributor- Rebuilt and RecurvedTaylor High Performance Spark Plug WiresMSD 8222 Blaster High Vibration Ignition CoilNitrode Spark Plugs - Essentially pre-manufactured edge gapped plugs - I've also indexed themNew Mechanical Fuel PumpCarter P4070 Electric fuel pump - Installed due to vapor lock issues which I've since fixed. Was due to the metal lines above intake manifold. If you want, you can remove either the mechanical or electric pump, or just run both - I will include a mechanical pump blockoff plate.Holley Fuel Pressure RegulatorJegs Liquid Filled Fuel Pressure Gauge60 Amp Alternator upgradeNew Thermostat Housing w/ 160* thermostat - 180* also includedPowerdercoated Turbo Valve Cover - Was supposed to be temporary till I found a "JDM" NISSAN cover, still haven't found one!New Oil Pressure Sender5 Speed out of a 1980 280zx (Best gear ratio IMO) - Replaced front/rear Seal and front gasket - Shifts flawlessly - Redline Fluid3.54 R180 Torsen LSD out of a 2006 Subaru STi with ~45, 00mi on it - Wolf Creek Racing Axle Adapters - All seals replaced - Redline FluidRon Tyler Diff Mount/Poly Mustache Bar BushingsNew Driveshaft U-JointsNew Clutch Slave CylinderAlways used high ZDDP oil with changes - Initially Brad Penn, but I recently switched to Kendall GT-1 20w-50Brakes and Suspension:New Brake Master CylinderNew Brake BoosterMSA 1" Front SwaybarTokico Struts in front, KYB in rearEibach Lowering SpringsAll bushings except rear control arms replaced with PolyurethaneModified T/C rod kit from MSA New Stoptech Brake Pads - Included but not installed4 New SS Brake lines - Included but not installedNew Tie Rod EndsRecent Professional AlignmentWheels and Tires:15x9 +0 Rota Shakotan Wheels - Mint condition, no damage whatsoeverKumho Ecsta 225/50/15 tires - Close to the wear bar on the inside (camber wear), a new set is under $300 to your door8mm Spacers in FrontLonger Wheel Studs from a Nissan Quest in FrontGorilla Automotive Lug NutsElectrical Upgrades:Dave's Headlight HarnessHella H4 Headlights - Yellow/White in color and extremely bright, no more issues driving at night!Ceramic Headlight Plugs60 Amp Alternator upgradeHella Horns - Now you won't get run over by an SUV! (Probably)MSA Fuse Box UpgradeLED Bulbs all AroundElectronic Flasher RelayMisc. BodyInteriorEtc:New BDA Chrome BumpersBRE Front SpookPowerdercoated Front Grille low Gloss BlackNew Wooden 5 Speed KnobNew Red Shift BootNew Driver's Side Seat FoamNew McMaster Carr Door SealsReplaced all Vapor lines in the rear - No more fuel smell! Tank is rust-free insideSound deadening on rear deckFull Dash CapNew Speedo CableI'm sure there's a few more things I am missing!Up for sale is my 1972 Datsun 240z. I have owned this car for about 2 years. While that may not seem like much, I've driven this car about 30, 00 miles in that time, and have rebuilt just about everything. I built it to be a ridiculously fun but very reliable daily driver, and I think I have succeeded in that respect. I commute in it daily about 80 miles assuming it's not raining or taken apart because I'm upgrading something. I don't necessarily suggest driving this car daily, you definitely don't have the comforts of a modern car. It's loud, ride is a little harsh, and no A/C! But it definitely is doable I can attest to that. Everything I've done to this car has been done to make it reliable and perform significantly better than stock, and because of that it will also make a great weekend cruiser, or even a show car. This is not a concours level car, but it is very, very nice and people will be talking to you about it everywhere you go. The other day I watched an F250 nearly rear end someone while yelling to me out his window! If you purchase this car you won't be disappointed. I am very sad to let it go, but I am moving soon and no longer will have a nice garage to store it in or work on it.Buying a car like this from a private seller can be scary, and online even more so. I will do my best to give a complete and accurate description of this car as I know it. I have been into just about every nook and cranny, and I've spent way more hours under it than I care to admit, so you won't be getting any nasty surprises.I bought the car two years ago with the paint already complete. The paint is now about 5 years old but still looks fantastic. Previous owner claims it was brought down to bare metal before painting. There are no dents, just a couple scratches and chips which are in the photos below. The color is very similar to the stock Silver the car came in, but has more metallic in it to give it a beautiful shine, along with a nice clear coat. At the time of purchase it had just about 95, 00 (supposed) original miles. I believe that figure, but I have no proof. The car is ALMOST rust free. Floor pans, hatch, frame rails, spare tire well, etc, are all stock and cancer free. I discovered a previous owner has replaced the battery tray at some point, and that area is now in good condition. I personally stripped and repainted the engine bay, painting with POR-15 on the radiator support and frame rails. All rust free. The only problem spots are a couple tiny bubbles coming up under the paint around the dogleg areas(All in the photos below). I bought the car with them and they seem to have not changed any in my ownership. I've spoken to my friend who owns a body shop and he says it's absolutely fixable if you feel the need. You wont need to repaint the whole car, just need to strip the area down, repair the metal, and then repaint it to blend with the rest of the paint. I had him redo my headlight bucket which I scratched when removing the hood and you cannot tell whatsoever that it was redone. I initially bought this car purely because of how straight and rust free it is. Unless the one you are buying has been completely restored on a rotisserie, I can almost guarantee it has some rust. This one is a prime example and is nearly flawless. I said before that I built this car up to be a reliable, fast, and fun daily, and my first big undertaking for that was the engine. The L24 was tired and burned oil (Original numbers matching L24 comes with purchase if you want it), so I decided to build up an L28 for that extra umph. The full build is detailed above, but the basics are a F54 Turbo block, and P90A Turbo cylinder head out of an '83 280zxt. The P90 is the best cylinder head in my opinion, both in flow characteristics and with its superior quench design compared to most of the other L series heads. I figured it was the perfect start to my N/A build. The engine was built by David Witt, owner of the Sacramento Datsun Owner's Club, who was a professional Datsun mechanic for many years and still rebuilds engines on the side. He knows what he's doing, so I figured that would best be left in his hands while I figured out the specifications. The engine is bored over 1mm, with brand new flat top pistons and rings, full ARP hardware (Head studs, rod bolts, main studs), viton valve seals (Much better than stock), an OEM Nissan gasket kit, etc. I also added a 12.3LB lightweight flywheel, and a Stage 3 Isky cam (.490 lift and 10* duration above stock) which really woke the motor up. Carburetors are fresh from ZTherapy with SM needles and the better flowing N36 intake manifold off of a 260z. Distributor is an electronic unit off of a '79 280zx with the E12-80 ignition module. I had it professionally rebuilt along with having the vacuum advance recurved so it was functional for my application. All of these things coupled with many others (most listed above) make for a very reliable and fast 240z. This engine was built not to push any limits, but delivers significantly more power than stock. It easily keeps up with my buddy's stage 2 tuned '12 GTi. My first (and only) time at the drag strip I was running consistent 14.3's at 96MPH on street tires, with launches at 2, 00RPM. And, believe it or not, it actually manages to get around 28MPG on the freeway easily.I recently upgraded the rear differential to a unit out of 2006 Subaru WRX STi. If you aren't aware, the rear end in that car is an R180, same as is in the 240z stock. The diff out of the STi is a 3.54 Torsen LSD which required axle adapters from Wolf Creek Racing to fit ($500 for the pair). Boy did that differential make a huge difference though, it is one of my favorite modifications I have done to the car. It hooks up amazingly and just tears out of corners. The diff has about 45, 00 miles on it. Unfortunately you do get some whine from it coming through the floor. I've done a bunch of research on this swap and it seems it is a common problem. I'd bet that swapping out the R/T diff mount for the stock strap style mount would reduce the noise significantly as the R/T mount presses directly onto where the pinion gears are which transmits the noise. It doesn't really bother me, but I figured the next owner should be aware before purchase. If for whatever reason the pinion gears are shot (highly doubt it as the diff was in perfect shape when it was removed from the Subie), then I was quoted about $200 to get them replaced and reshimmed - not too bad since I already ate about $1000 installing this diff.Overall the interior is in great shape. I love the silver exterior and red interior color combo. The dash has a full cap installed (by the previous owner). The signed glove box door won't come with the car - it's worth more sentimentally to me than I'm sure it's worth to any of you so I will swap it out for a different one. The seats look pretty good. I just replaced the driver's side seat foam. Carpet is decent, a fitted kit might be nice. The vinyl, panels, headliner, sun visors, etc, are all in great shape. The only bit of interior I would replace is the rear strut tower vinyl, it has a couple tears but it still isn't in awful shape. I recently installed about $200 in sound deadening in the rear to combat exhaust and road noise. All of the gauges work! Tachometer and speedometer both read accurately (installed the correct cog for the rear end ratio), and even the clock works, albeit a bit slow. The oil pressure gauge works but reads low, I checked it with a mechanical gauge and the pressure is good. The oil pump is an M111 which is a higher flow/pressure pump. The windshield is original and recently developed a small crack. I will be providing a brand new windshield seal from BDA with purchase, new windshields are ~$120 from RockAuto. The only other flaw with the car is one I caused recently - I had a mishap with my jack slipping and it dented the fuel tank. It doesn't affect anything and you can't see it without being under the car.That's it as far as any flaws go. Again my goal with this ad is to detail everything I know about my car so you don't have any surprises. Most people on eBay and Craigslist seem to post 5 line ads with no details and expect you to shell out top dollar for their cars. My 240z is a beautiful car and I promise you won't be disappointed if you end up winning! I love this car and if I didn't have to sell it I wouldn't. I've invested way, way more into it than I know I will ever get out of it. I have the car listed locally and you're more than welcome to come take a look and take it for a test drive. If you have any questions at all about purchasing my car - contact me. I am reachable at 530-919-9798 via text or calling, but please leave a voicemail if I don't answer. Or, you can leave a question on the ad and I will respond promptly.$500.00 Deposit Required within 24 hours of auction close, full payment within 7 days. Cash preferred but we can work out a secure payment - message me.CLICK HERE FOR FULL ALBUM HOSTED ON IMGUR - Better Quality

On May-16-15 at 18:12:15 PDT, seller added the following information:

I've had a couple people ask about the Turbo valve cover - I also mentioned this in the description. That cover is what came on the '83 turbo motor I used for this build, I intended it to be temporary until I found one of the big letter "NISSAN" covers which were never sold in the US. A "Nissan OHC" cover off of the original L24 will come with sale if the new owner wishes.