Do you want to own a $30K - $140K classic Dodge Challenger but don't have $30K - $140K? Here's one way to get a $30K - $140K Challenger: Buy a very restorable one for a lot less and make it $30K - $140K or more with sweat equity. This is a perfect candidate to make into a custom Foose-type Challenger. You could do like this dealer: take a 6 Cylinder Challenger. customize it and put it on sale for $140K on eBay: http://www. ebay. com/itm/Dodge-Challenger-/161664723459?forcerrptr=true&hash=item25a3f7ea03&item=161664723459You could do like this dealer: take a 6 cylinder Challenger and make a Challenger T/A clone out of it and put in on sale for $60K on eBay:http://www. ebay. com/itm/Dodge-Challenger-T-A-Tribute-/281663820785?forcerrptr=true&hash=item419478d3f1&item=281663820785You could do like this dealer: take a 6 Cylinder Challenger. clone into an RT and put it on sale for $45K on eBay: http://www. ebay. com/itm/Dodge-Challenger-/381217901941?forcerrptr=true&hash=item58c25b8d75&item=381217901941This eBay listing involves the purchase of a classic 1970 Dodge Challenger. It requires an earnest money deposit of $500 to my Paypal account within 24 hours after winning the vehicle. It requires payment in full of the balance within 72 hours after winning the vehicle. Bidding here constitutes agreement to those terms of payment !Don't bid an offer here if you're a deadbeat that doesn't pay as you agreed. If you bid an offer that's not automatically rejected. which eBay's software will indicate to you. then include in your offer a statement that you will pay as agreed in accordance with the listing. If your eBay ID has 0 feedback and you just opened the account immediately before your bid. include in your offer a statement identifying contact information on yourself and an explanation for the 0 feedback and new account. The body of the car is totally clean. All the grunge has been gone for 25 years. Totally different from buying a grungy. old. basket case Challenger on eBay that had crappy photos and skimpy. misleading item descriptions that didn't expose all the hidden defects like some others I see on eBay right now. and then removing disgusting. trash-laden carpet pieces or piles of trunk trash. then busting your sludged-up knuckles breaking loose all those rusted-together. sludge-covered parts and realizing after you paid more than $10K for it that it wasn't an RT and the hood. floors. quarters. deck panel. etc. all have to be replaced. You also don't have to pay $7877 for a car with rusted out Quarters and worthless non-Rallye wheels and then have to clean off all that yucky pigeon or chicken guano either. like another one that was recently on eBay. http://www. ebay. com/itm/1970-Dodge-Challenger-/231530709411?rkt=12&rk=3&mehot=pp&sd=251915984284&_trkparms=aid%3D222007&pid=100350&aid=222007&ext=30077&algo=SIC. MBE&cp=1&asc=29979&ao=1&meid=2e27de02db5c490ba2dd1d09913623f2&sojTags=exe%3Dexe%2Cext%3Dext&_trksid=p2047675. l2557&euid=92ecad656a7f431185542279f9291629&exe=12154&nma=true&si=EoVS9Rhp1Vxrr%252BmRWPU8HVRSWV4%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=ncThis one allows you to skip all that dreary grunge-bucket dismantling. nbsp;because this one is very clean and ready to pop onto the Rotisserie Stand or car cart to begin the restoration work. Yes. of course. I have the title to the car. I've owned the car for more than 28 years. Definitely a different situation from others on eBay where some guy is selling a basket case that he just got from someone else and provides a skimpy. misleading item description in his listing. The VIN is JH23B0B332731. I included a photo of the fender tag with the VIN on it. I bought this 1970 Dodge Challenger New Year's Eve for 1987 and restored it in 1989. It was beautiful for at least 15 years as a posted 1992 photo shows. But it's been outside for 25 years and developed rust problems in small spots around the front and rear windshields in Florida's rainy weather. The car is completely dismantled. I dismantled it in order to protect it by storing it inside. pending a new restoration. But I have other cars to restore and I may never get to a new restoration of this car. There are plenty of guys out there eager to get their hands on a very restorable Challenger like this one that's not a grungy. basket-case. The vehicle is sold AS-IS. The front and rear sub-frames are perfectly solid. It's a Florida car. No road salt down here. When the frames are perfectly solid like this you know the car is very restorable. Some buyer on eBay just bought. assuming they're not a deadbeat and actually pay. nbsp;this dismantled 1973 Challenger without engine for $16K. You can't clone a 1973 into a $45K R/T or a $60K T/A but you can do that with this 1970. And if you paid $4500. you certainly could get everything you need to fully assemble this body for a lot less than $11. 00:http://www. ebay. com/itm/1973-Dodge-Challenger-/161678511756?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC. SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29540%26meid%3D4714240ff46847989ff82b15fee6578e%26pid%3D100270%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D161678511756%26clkid%3D5581446300387961939&_qi=RTM2067267&_trksid=p2047675. l2557&nma=true&si=EoVS9Rhp1Vxrr%252BmRWPU8HVRSWV4%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc The floors including the trunk floor were restored in the 1989 restoration and are still solid except for a small. easily repairable. nbsp;rust hole of about 2 inches by 1 inch on the rear floor board just behind the driver's seat area which is visible in the photos. There was some spot repair done on them in the 1989 restoration. You may consider putting fresh floors in the car because the replacement metal is so much better now than in 1989. I used OEM floor pans and trunk floor pans from another Mopar E-Body in the 1989 restoration. Both Quarters. Roof. Rear Deck. Cowl. both A-Pillar tops suffered some spot rust damage and I recommend that they be replaced with aftermarket sheetmetal for a perfect restoration. The aftermarket provides replacement sheet metal on all these parts. It is possible to spot repair all of these. but now there are much larger offerings of replacement sheetmetal available for Challengers that weren't yet available in 1989. Yes. I recommend you replace the floors for a perfect restoration. That's why the car is Rotisserie-ready: To get easily and directly to the sheetmetal work. which should not take more than a few weeks to complete. Then it's all downhill with assembly of the vehicle. The vehicle was only driven 20K miles since restored in 1989. I have almost 60 photos but can only post 24. DOUBLE CLICK ON THE MAIN PHOTO – POPS-UP A SLIDESHOW OF THE 24 PHOTOS. Photo 1: Car in 92 showing excellent restored conditionPhoto 2: Fender Tag with VIN Photo 3: Left Front Subframe from Cowl to Shock Tower in Perfect Condition. Also Lower Cowl in excellent condition. 24 photo limit left photo of Left Front Subframe in perfect condition from Shock Tower to Radiator Bulkhead out of posting. Photo 4: Right Front Subframe from Cowl to Shock Tower in Perfect Condition. Also Lower Cowl in excellent condition. 24 photo limit left photo of Right Front Subframe in perfect condition from Shock Tower to Radiator Bulkhead out of posting. Photo 5: Right Engine Compartment Inner Fender and Radiator Bulkhead showing the Engine Compartment clean and in excellent condition. Photo 6:The totally rebuilt Front Suspension with Moog heavy duty ball joints and Polygraphite performance Bushings. The Lower Control Arms Struts are clearly visible and show the new bushings in superb condition. Huge Savings in buying a car without having to rebuild the front suspension. Just bolt it back together. Photo 7:Photo of an Upper Control Arm showing the beefy heavy-duty Moog ball joint example with grease boot in perfect condition proving low mileage after the 1989 restoration. The Passenger-side Door is visible in the background. Photo 8: Photo of interior Cowl. Firewall and Front Floor area. Part of 1989 Restoration. Coated with rust stabilizer/inhibiter. Epoxy Primer. sealant. black top coat. and ample rubberized undercoating. as was rest of floor area of the car. Photo 9:Rear Floor Area. Ditto: Part of 1989 Restoration. Coated with rust stabilizer/inhibiter. Epoxy Primer. sealant. black top coat. and ample rubberized undercoating. Photo 10:Driver Side Floor Area. Ditto: Part of 1989 Restoration. Coated with rust stabilizer/inhibiter. Epoxy Primer. sealant. black top coat. and ample rubberized undercoating. A small rust hole area opened behind Driver’s Seat Area visible in the photo. Easily spot repairable. Photo 11:Passenger Side Floor Area. Ditto: Part of 1989 Restoration. Coated with rust stabilizer/inhibiter. Epoxy Primer. sealant. black top coat. and ample rubberized undercoating. Photo 12:Rear Subframes shown in Perfect Condition. (It’s a Florida car. ) With view of Trunk Floor. Floor. Shock Crossmember and Wheel Housing in excellent condition. Ditto: Part of 1989 Restoration. Coated with rust stabilizer/inhibiter. Epoxy Primer. sealant. black top coat and ample rubberized undercoating. Photo 13: Right Front Windshield/A-Pillar area with Roof on right side of photo and Cowl on left side of photo. Spot rust visible in 4 small areas. Photo 14: Left Side Top Cowl area. Spot Rust Hole visible in Top Cowl. Photo 15: Left Top of Area of Front Windshield. I recommend a new roof skin. Photo 16: Right Top of Area of Front Windshield Photo 17: Right side of Rear Windshield area with Rear Deck Panel and Right Upper Quarter Panel. Photo 18: Left side of Rear Windshield area with Rear Deck Panel and bottom of Rear Windshield area. Photo 19: Photo of 2 tables full of parts for the 70 Challenger. At right are the dash and the front grille on top of the rear bumper. The left taillight is visible in front of the rear bumper. The backup light and the right taillight are visible to the left of the grille. The two rear side windows are behind the dash and the rear window is behind the 2 rear side windows. The 2 headlight bezels are further left. The chrome front and rear windshield moldings are between the headlight bezels and above the rear valance. The keys are in a plastic bag under the left end of the rear bumper. To the left of the right taillight are several plastic bags of small parts and fasteners (nuts. bolts. screws. etc. ) Underneath the right headlight bezel is a stack of parts mostly from the rear side of the car such as the window tracks for the 2 side windows. The narrow blue piece is the filler panel found between the rear bumper and taillight panel. Photo 20:At the bottom is the rear valance. Behind the valance is the steering column. Also the gas tank filler tube. Both hidden from view by the valance. At the left is a grey bag containing all the wiring harnesses of the car. Below the blue rear filler panel is the black headliner and its parts. The battery tray is in the middle and behind it are a stack of parts from the front of the car. such as the undercowl piece that contains the brake pedal and mounts to the cowl on the backside of the brake master cylinder and the backing plate which is in the stack. The gas pedal is in the stack. All the windshield wiper parts are in the stack. As are the cowl insulations. top cowl screen pieces. top cowl weatherstrip. all the cowl to engine compartment hoses. etc. Photo 21: Photo of the Dash. Dash Components and the Dash Controls Photo 22: Photos of the Fenders. with the Deck Lid partially shown to the right and the Right Door partially shown to the left. The Fenders. Doors. Deck Lid. Body etc. were all meticulously. professional-grade restored in 1989 as the photo indicates. Acrylic Lacquer top coat was used in 1989 since it was prior to modem base coat/clear coat paint systems being available. It’s easily scratchable so it suffered in storage. Photo 23:Exposure to 25 years of Florida moisture after the 1989 Restoration took a toll in one area of the Fenders but this is localized to a small area as shown and easily metal-patchable. The Doors also suffered the same with localized. spot-repairable areas at the bottom front and smaller areas in the bottom rear. The Fenders and Doors are definitely metal-repair patchable and economically repairable. They have no collision damage and their surfaces were laboriously sanded straight in the 1989 Restoration. The inner-side of the Fenders were also given the extensive rust prevention treatment with rust inhibitive paint. Epoxy Primer. top coat and ample rubberized undercoating. Photo 24: The Gas Tank shown in excellent condition. painted and sprayed with protective rubberized undercoating. The underside of the car was amply protected. I installed a new Battery Tray in 1989 and it's still in excellent condition. The Gas Tank is in very good condition. The Rear Bumper and Rear Valance are in very good condition. The Rear Bumper Chrome is very shiny. The Rear Leaf Springs need to be replaced and the Rear End is a Slant6 driveline 7. 25. The Taillights are in good condition. The lens are very good but the lens housings have some chrome pitting due to age. The Side Marker Lamps are very good. The Trunk Lid is in good shape but had some inner panel spot rust damage that was repaired in 1989 but suffered some in the 25 years after. It does have the inner panel cutouts for the Go Wing mounts which repro lids may not have. thus it's very worthwhile to reuse it. Message me and I'll send photos of it. The outer skin of the Trunk Lid looks fine. The Rear Windshield and Rear Side Glass are in very good condition but need to have their tinting redone. A replacement is required for the Front Windshield. It was borrowed from another car of mine. The Doors and Fenders were part of the 1989 restoration and thus are in good condition. The Fenders. due to being off the car and stored with each other. their sharp edges scratched the other's paint. Same for the doors. Just the top coat which was very scratchable Acrylic Lacquer. The car was primered in Epoxy Primer then Surfacing Primer then Acrylic Lacquer top coat in 1989. The Epoxy Primer is still state-of-the-art primer and I don't recommend removing it in areas not being repaired when repainting the car. Sand the Lacquer top coat down to the Surfacing Primer layer underneath since much better Top Coat paints are available now. Unfortunately. due to rain exposure. there is one small rust spot at the rear bottom of each Fender and a little bit worse and the front bottom of the doors. The Fenders can certainly be repaired fairly easily thus saving $600 each for each replacement aftermarket Fender. The Doors are a little worse and certainly can be repaired. I recommend repairing the doors and fenders. They have small spot rust damage at the bottom that's very repairable. Aftermarket doors and fenders are still very expensive and these doors and fenders from the 1989 restoration are still very reusable. I had to replace the driver's door in the 1989 restoration because the original had been side-swiped. I removed the Left Door VIN tag. so it's still with the car. Message me and I've send a photo of it. The door glass on both doors was replaced in 1989 with factory tinted glass. The 1970 Grille and Headlight Bezels are in good condition but have some slight metal damage. The Grille has some small perturbation in the metal at the ends but is in very good condition. The RT Hood that was on the car was rusted out in the front left corner when I bought it. It had damage on the top surface also. which I metal-repaired both in 1989. But the filler cracked in both areas due to 25 years of summer heat exposure and rust came back in the left front area. So I recommend buying a new aftermarket RT Hood. Too much labor was involved in getting the top surfaces straight in 1989 so it's cheaper to start over with a fresh hood. The old RT Hood is not part of the car. It's not something that I would repair anymore. I scrounged a Front Bumper out of a junkyard for the 1989 restoration when you could still find Challengers in junkyards. But it's not Restoration-grade. A new reproduction front bumper isn't that expensive. The Front Valance needs some body work but is certainly restorable. One turn indicator lamp is missing. The Front Suspension is in SUPERB condition. The best part of the car. Just bolt it back together. No need to spend many hundreds rebuilding an old. worn-out suspension on an old basket case Challenger. The whole Front Suspension was completely rebuilt in 1989 with Moog heavy-duty parts and polygraphite performance bushings and is still like new. It gave a smooth. sweet ride. The front brakes are drum without power booster. but that worked fine in a 6 cylinder car. The car has power steering and the pump and gear box are in very good condition. The car received new shocks all around in 1989 so they only have 20K miles on them and are still very good. The hood trim piece and the tail panel trim pieces are missing. They are all aftermarket available. The existing metal trim pieces exterior and interior are in good condition. The two corner pieces to the Front Windshield bottom chrome trim are missing. The side glass weatherstripping trim pieces are fine. There are missing small parts to the car because I borrow-cannibalized parts from another car that I still have and have yet to restore. Interior:The interior plastic A-pillar moldings and kick panels are missing. They were borrowed. The metal interior pieces that run from the A-pillar plastic moldings to the rear side window area are also missing. You'll have to buy new seats and carpet. The seats used in the 1989 restoration were borrowed. Only the 1970 front bucket passenger seat originally remains and needs recovering. A new carpet was bought in 1989 but 25 years of sun has bleached the color brown. Top quality reproduction carpets with the correct nylon loop fabric and jute backing are available cheaply from the aftermarket. so get a new carpet. The Headliner is from the 1989 restoration and is good. But. you might want to get a new one anyway. The seat belt parts were also all borrowed. The 1970 seat belts weren't restoration-grade. There are replacement and/or used seat belt sets available for the 70 Challenger on eBay. The Dash has an aftermarket cap on it. is still in very good condition. but 25 years of Florida summer heat has done a little warpage in the top vent outlet area. I don't recall the exact condition of the Dash underneath the cap. my recollection is from 1989. I recall that the Dash wasn't bad but wasn't perfect and could be replaced with an aftermarket dash or redone by Just Dashes or another Dash restorer. The Dash was a non-1970 replacement in 1989 because the 1970 Dash wasn’t in usable condition. It doesn't contain the VIN tag on it. My recollection says the Dash VIN was already gone from the 70 Dash. but I'm not sure. I know I would not have discarded the old 70 Dash if it still had the VIN on it. I kept that Dash in my storage shed for many years. I moved the dash into my house but haven't found it yet so I haven't yet found if I still have a Dash VIN if I ever had it. The Fender Tag with the VIN has always been with the car. I have the Left Inner Fender and the Left Door VIN tags. I've owned the car for more than 28 years. You'll need to replace the steering wheel and the column crash can. They're missing. The Steering column is fine. The Heater Core. Left and Right Cowl Vents and Dash Control Panels are all fine. I don't have the 2 bottom Dash trim pieces and the Radio-surround trim piece. The cardboard Glove Box is no longer there. The steering column is fine and contains the transmission shifter. I recommend replacement of the hard plastic Door and Rear Panels. They're in usable shape but the prior owner cut out speaker holes in them. Shipping: It's Local Pickup. I'm not paying for shipping. But I will certainly facilitate all I can to help the buyer's effort. The Buyer is responsible for shipping and either picking the car up in Orlando. FL or arranging pickup and transport with an Auto Transport company. When you buy. you'll receive my contact information to arrange a pickup of the vehicle. I'm here at the pickup address 100% of the time so it should be easy to coordinate a pickup date/time. Hopefully. you'll pickup with an enclosed car trailer. Everything will fit inside it. I've moved everything into my garage so it's ready for pickup. If the buyer uses a third party to pickup the vehicle. I will box-up all the small parts so the shipper can't misplace them and I'll make sure everything is inventoried by the shipper. The doors. fenders. trunk lid are too large to box. The dash pad might be too big to box but if it will fit in a 15x15 box. I'll box it. Otherwise. I'll reattach it to the body. Some parts not worth boxing like the hard plastic door panels. I'll tape to the inside of the body. Some of the bending trim pieces might not be boxable and have to be taped inside the body. We are talking many boxes to box all these parts. The longer parts require 2 boxes taped together. Packaging material costs money so I will do the boxing if the buyer adds $150 to their offer! Be cognizant that with boxing support. the minimum offer that I accept is $150 higher. The car body will be slid on plywood out of the garage onto my driveway where it can be picked-up. I'll assist if requested in getting the body and all the parts onto the trailer used for pickup. I can slide the car body on plywood up the ramp into the trailer. If the buyer wants the body on wheels. they can bring a wheel set/car cart at pickup to roll the body onto the trailer. The body is light enough to be picked up and carried manually by two people in the rear and one in front. If the buyer requests. I can take photos of all items picked up in the case of a third party shipper. Slant 6 drivetrain:I assume buyers want to upgrade the vehicle to V-8 to get more value out of their restoration and may not want the Slant 6 drivetrain. The buyer can buy the car without the Slant 6 drivetrain. If the buyer's offer is low. I assume the buyer's offer excludes the Slant 6 drivetrain. If the buyer plans to ship the vehicle. it will certainly save the buyer money to buy the car without the Slant 6 drivetrain because the drivetrain carries a lot of weight with it and are more parts to box and ship. When the buyer makes an offer. specify if the Slant 6 stuff is in or out. Info on the Slant 6 drivetrain:The car was equipped with Chrysler's Electronic Ignition in 1989 and is in excellent condition. A remanufactured 1970 225 slant six engine was part of the 1989 restoration and has only 20K miles on it. That engine is completely sludge-free and looks like a new engine internally. because it is essentially a new engine. It lost some compression in one of the cylinders (#3) so it doesn't idle as smoothly as it did. In fact. the idle became irritating when the engine warmed up. The engine idled very smoothly for most of the 20K miles. Somewhere in my notes I have the compression readings on the cylinders but I haven't found them. I tried to take the cylinder head off to inspect the engine internally after bringing the engine into my garage. With all the cylinder head bolts off. the cylinder head remained firmly stuck on the engine block. And I used the engine hoist to lift the engine by the cylinder head and the unbolted engine block rose with the cylinder head. I don't know what the remanufacturer did with the cylinder head gasket to have such adhesion. So. I haven't been able to inspect Cylinder 3 to see why it might have lost some compression. FYI: The 1970 225 Slant Six engine with the car is a forged crank engine. Slant Sixes still had Forged Cranks in 1970 model engines!You can research it. I have photos of the sludge free-ness and the 1968 casting date of the block indicating it's a forged crank motor. The long block was purchased from a major engine remanufacturer when I restored the car. I don't recall their name but simply recall that they were one of the major remanufacturers. And they apparently provided a correct engine for a 1970 car. Thus this Slant Six has the very rare Forged Crankshaft to the best of my knowledge. Thus the Buyer could choose to make a performance engine of this 1970 Slant Six if they want to stay with the 6 cylinder drivetrain. The carburetor is in good condition. The 904 Transmission is in very good condition. It performed perfectly when I drove it but is the original transmission. I have a V-8 Radiator Bulkhead that can be installed on the car in a V-8 conversion that the buyer could buy separately. less than an aftermarket piece. A new Radiator was installed in 1989 and so it only has 20K miles on it. So it's very good. But it's a Radiator for the Slant Six. not a V-8. The rear axle assembly is Slant 6 and thus 7. 25 and thus not for a V-8 conversion. Get new leaf springs either way. There is some leaf separation on the old leaf springs. ---------I still have the stock Mopar Road Wheel mags shown in the picture and am willing to sell them separately. Only 2 tires remain. 2 rims are without tires.