This is a unique car—I hope it appeals to you. I am a retired professor and have been asked by my university to represent it in Geneva at the Human Rights Council. Wonderful opportunity but I am 74 now and will be 76 or 77 when I get back. After a lot of discussion with my wife and internal debate, I am selling my 1938 Ford Standard coupe.

I am going to let the photos and a couple of documents I’ve prepared do the talking. There is a large Flickr photo file (https://www.flickr.com/photos/100030091@N02/with/26932261813/) that I am adding to all the time.

There are also two important documents that you should read but you’ll have to ask me for these (donholsinger@gmail.com or 801-818-2158). One contains the history of the ’38 or as much as I can document. The other is a critical read because it gives a complete description of the work that I have done on this gorgeous resto-rod.

The car just last week took second place (behind a Studebaker Golden Hawk) in the resto-rod class at a large and classy show in the red rocks of Southern Utah.

On the price I am looking for, I want to be upfront with everybody while respecting the auction format. As you will see from one of the documents I will send on request, I have a conservative $60,000 in this car. I would like to get two thirds of that. Of course that $60K doesn’t count the thousands of hours that I personally put into it. Even if you could find as nice a car as this one to start with, my guess is that you would be at $75,000 to replicate it.

Thanks for your interest and let show begin!

P.S. I require no help in selling so please no calls with offers to list elsewhere. The car is sold "as is, where is" meaning no guarantees implied or otherwise. I like good, clear, honest, frequent communication. Email works best for me and I will reply promptly. I would consider a trade for a 2015 or 2016 Audi TT Quattro or Porsche Cayman but nothing else. Thanks.

On Jun-17-16 at 15:00:22 PDT, seller added the following information:

Apparently the Flickr account will have to be updated in this fashion now that there are bids.
Please see photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/100030091@N02/
I strongly urge you to write to me at the address in the original listing. I willthen send you two documents, the build sheet and the historical backgroundof the 38. If you don't like history you need to read this one.

On Jun-18-16 at 06:44:16 PDT, seller added the following information:

Lots of new material here today. I will be adding many new photos to the Flickr album so you will have to revisit from time to time to get them and there will be hundred. This is exceptional car and because prospective buyers may not all be in a position to make a personal visit, I feel obligated to help you understand the car.
New photos here:https://www.flickr.com/photos/100030091@N02/albums/72157669358852882

1938 Ford Standard Coupe

Build and Parts

Category	Explanation of Build and Part Used	Suppliers and Cost
Body, sheet metal & glass	You should first read the “history” section. The body is very straight, gaps are good, doors open and close with a solid “thunk”. There is no rust, no rust repair and may be the case that there never was any rust. No patch panels. No body filler. All OEM steel and OEM glass. No sheet parts have been replaced—this is all original. Cowl vent perfect operational. Windows go up and down as they should. Rubber parts are good. Running boards are good with now tears.	The front end of the body was removed for the mechanical work done under my watch.
Paint	Only the right front (passenger side) fender has been repainted. As noted in the Inspection Report, there was a deep scratch in the fender that I am told was the result of a garage mishap. I couldn’t ignore and so it was painted. That paint is not the same quality as the 32-year-old black lacquer that covers the rest of the car. There are little flaws, some starring, and a few little cracks. But the paint is so thick, deep, smooth and lustrous that I did not have the courage to touch it. I have clayed and waxed it but nothing more.	The right front fender was removed and sprayed by a local paint shop. It is presentable but not up to standard.
Rubber trim molding	We replaced a few items but most of the rubber bits were replaced by Mr. Skoog and probably because the car saw no use after his untimely passing, and was stored dry indoors, it remained it very good condition.
Bumpers	I am uncertain as to origin as they came to me with the car. They are correct 1938 Ford but because the chrome was old and had a few scratches, I sent them to Ogden Chrome for show quality chrome plating.	Ogden Chrome $1100
Frame	The frame was cleaned, sand blasted and painted black (not sure of the paint) by A. Skoog in his 1985 restoration. It looked so good to us in 2014 that we didn’t do a thing to it. I don’t see any structural damage nor any structural reinforcements.
Engine	I bought the engine on eBay ($4,000). I have had many people look at. I can’t guarantee anything but so far no one seems to dispute that it is exactly as advertised—a small block Chevy 283 with double camel hump heads. Camel hump (double hump) heads were GM's high flow heads in the 60's. Aftermarket heads would have would have been better but this engine was advertised as “restored” not “rebuilt” and I pretty much kept it that way. We examined the engine thoroughly and have no reason to doubt the claim that this was a restored engine, meant as claimed, to go into a 1957 Chevy project. But, when the engine’s owner decided to go a different direction, the engine builder sold it on eBay. We took the camshaft out, lubed it, pre-lubed everything, turned it by hand and then by electric motor. We put zinc additive in. The engine is great--just what you would expect and nothing more. The only parts not stock are: (1) distributor which has a Petronix kit in it and special high temperature resistant wires with ceramic boots to protect plugs ; (2) Edelbrock dual plane performer series intake manifold, (3) Holley 500 cfm Carburetor; (4) Speedway Motors Tru-Ram cast iron exhaust manifolds. The engine is painted Chevrolet hi-temp orange and the Corvette valve covers and intake manifold are powder coated Chevrolet orange.	$4,000
Engine intake accessories	Holley (PN: 0-80350) four barrel carburetor, Hildebrandt oil filter cover; titanium exhaust wrap; Jones SS exhaust tips; Mr. Gasket remote oil filter kit; Wilcap Chevy to early Ford engine to transmission adaptor kit ($900).	$900
Engine Exhaust system and accessories	Manifold and From the manifolds to the tips, the entire system is new suing 2.25” pipe and Flowmaster 40 series mufflers. Sounds wonderful. I required them to build them system not just hang it under the frame. So there are many artful bends and some welds. But it is tucked up tight and sounds wonderful.
Drive shaft	Custom built by Six States of Orem, Utah. Fully balanced and painted.	$110.00
Rear end	This was a big deal—bigger than I bargained for but once I decided on the Winters Quick change center unit, many other changes were required. From Pete and Jakes came the open driveline kit and three Winters gear sets. The whole rear end was custom built for me by Hot Rod Works in Caldwell, Idaho, a shop dedicated to hot rod rear ends. I got the whole deal set up by the best in this business for a mere $$2,699.33. The gear sets are Winters #4504 (3.48/4.86), Winters #4503 (3.78/4.47), and Winters #4508 (2.94/5.75). The car will come with the first set (using the 3.48 ratio) installed.	$2,699.33
Brakes	I used the Pete and Jakes complete kit for using large Lincoln brakes. They work perfectly and look good.
Steering	From Pete and Jakes: Vega pitman arm, new Mullins Vega steering box ($379), steering plate, steering u-joint, DD shaft, steering column lower bushing, front panhard bar.	$379.00
Transmission	I had a ’39 Ford toploader passenger car transmission lying around and decided to send it to VanPelt for rebuilding and modification. Mac replaced the gear set with 1951-52 truck gears for the open drive type rear end. He replaced all bearings, thrust washers, seals, bushings, gaskets and shifter detent springs & balls. He cleaned and repainted the case and filled it with VPGO-1A gear oil. Cost $1,820.41.	$500.00 $1,820.00
Suspension	Most of the suspension parts are from Pete and Jakes and include: new front spring, front shock kit, rear shock kit, rear Posie spring, spring shackles, king pin set, drag link set, I-beam axle, tie rod kit, 28-31 rear cross member for transverse spring with U-bolts, flat top perches with coned washers and nuts (chrome).
Wishbone	Henry Ford's method of locating the I-beam front axle consists of a triangulated arrangement comprising the wishbone and a beam axle, with a transverse leaf spring mounted above the axle. The whole arrangement pivots about the ball at the rear of the wishbone and the center of the leaf spring, mounted to the front crossmember. It is crude but offers a big range of suspension travel, especially when combined with a similar system at the rear. And that is what we have here—a true unsplit wishbone suspension all powder coated and looking beautiful.
Wheels	Original Ford 16” not reproductions, powder coated, all five of them.
Tires	From Coker 600R16 Coker black on the rear plus spare (3) and 550R16 Coker black (2) on the front.	$750
Wheel covers	The “spyder” caps are SS reproductions. These are reproduced by hand and by a craftsman who pounds them out of thick stainless steel and then polishes them to a high luster. Originals are sometimes available. These are better. Together with the beauty rings you are looking at close to $2,000.	$2,000
Interior (upholstery & carpets)	Although the interior upholstery was in reasonably good condition when I acquired the car, it was 32 years old and had acquired a few stains and odors that were simply not commensurate with the look and the quality I was after. The entire interior was gutted, cleaned and sprayed with Lizard Skin and then covered in quarter inch Dynamat panels everywhere we could locate them. The custom stitching was done in a automotive corduroy material by Arrowhead Upholstery in Payson, Utah.	$4,500
Dashboard	The dashboard is stock ’38 except for the glove box door which is from a ’39 Deluxe. The dash was removed and powder coated gloss black to match window trim.
Gauges	I tried to keep this original looking. But the Winter Quick Change rear end meant that a mechanical speedometer would not work well. The speedometer was sent to Redline Gauges who work with Speedhut to insert a GPS unit into an old speedometer and make it look restored but function as a new GPS unit. It’s expensive but it works. Took six months of anxious waiting but works like a charm and is very accurate.	$1,000.00
Chrome	All chrome work was done by Ogden Chrome in Show Chrome.	$1500.00
Stainless Trim	All of the extensive polished stainless trim is accounted for and properly located on the car. There is one piece that has a small dent and needs to be re-polished. The trim was sent to Fat Fendered Relics (http://www.fatfenderedrelics.com/welcome.html) that did a marvelous job restoring the many small trim pieces for the grill of the ’38 Standard. He even made one missing piece. Expensive but you get what you pay for.	$1800.00
Cover	From California Car Cover, custom OAH cover in grey with bag.	$200
	Major parts total	$26,030.00
	Minor parts total (see Ralph Derico invoices	2,500.00
	Grand total	$28,530.00

Mr. Ralph Derico of KAR Restoration in Ephraim, Utah did the work on the car in his professional shop. Extensive photos of the restoration/rebuild are available. All work notes from Ralph are likewise available and this constitutes many pages. Because this is the 4th car I have done with Ralph over a 20-year period, and because I don’t pressure him to maintain a strict time schedule, Ralph charges me $35/hour. Other customers happily pay more than twice that.

Labor costs

1. 36.5 hours 1277.50

2. 69.0 2415.00

3. 49.5 1732.00

4. 65.75 2301.25

5. 66.5 2327.50

6. 54.5 1907.50

Totals

341.75 $11,960.75

Approximate cost to produce this car:

Original car: $21,000

Labor: 11,960

Parts: 28,530

Total: $61,490

On Jun-18-16 at 06:49:04 PDT, seller added the following information:

1938 Ford Standard Coupe

History and Original Restoration

We always wish we had more information. In this case there is quite bit—still, never enough. But here is what I have.

I don’t know anything about this car before 1966. However I have in my possession a 1966 Connecticut Title for the car in the name of Theodore Warzecha of Portland, Connecticut. Portland is a small, rural town 25 miles south of Manchester. Warsecha died in 1985 and apparently sold the Ford to Alvin Skoog, Sr. of Manchester, Connecticut, in 1984. Alvin died just two years later in 1987.

I also have the Connecticut registration in the name of Alvin A. Skoog Sr, 27 Chalmers St., Manchester, Connecticut under the date of 7/18/84. There is also an insurance card (7/1/84). Mr. Skoog, who was born in 8/24/44, would have been 40 years of age when he acquired the 1938 Ford. There is an appraisal of the car ordered by Alvin Skoog and dated 7/23/84. The appraisal was done by Bundy Motors and valued the car at $4,000.

Despite that valuation, Mr. Skoog insured his ’38 Ford as an “Antique Vehicle” in the amount of $9,500 which may give a better idea of what he, and perhaps the insurers, thought it was worth in 1984.

At that point there is very little documentary evidence about the car. On the other hand there are seventeen color photos of the restoration of the vehicle all date stamped on the reverse side. From the photos I can say that the restoration was thorough. JR Skoog, Alvin’s son, said that his dad, a telephone company lineman, paid a professional shop to undertake the restoration. The body came off the frame, the engine was removed and rebuilt. The photos are dated June 1985. JR Skoog has told that his father undertook most of the restoration personally with professional assistance to rebuild the engine and transmission and with the final painting. There is no evidence of rust or welding on the body or frame. No patch panels are evident. In fact it isn’t obvious why the restoration was done in such a comprehensive fashion. All I know is that it was.

Alvin Skoog, Sr. died of cancer in January 1987. I have one photo of him in the ’38 after it was “restored.” I am using that word loosely here. Given the severe winters in that part of the world, the photo was taken in the summer of 1986. I estimate that the car was stored inside but not driven for 28 years. The first person to get it started was the representative of a Car Inspection firm who I hired to give the car a complete inspection. The only preparation for the inspection was the charging of the battery and washing of the exterior. Here is the Inspection Report:

Overall, this is a very clean classic car. As stated there is a minor scratch on the right front fender, absolutely no filler or rust anywhere on this car. The car is painted in lacquer, the undercarriage is extremely clean, detailed and solid, engine has period correct mods and runs well. The dual exhaust with cherry bomb mufflers are not too loud but sound just right. Vehicle has hydraulic brakes. The clutch has a good feel and the transmission shifts well. No undercarriage oil leaks, transmission leaks, rear differential leaks were observed. The interior is a suede type material in good condition. The headliner and door panels are good and match up. The gauges are operational. Some miscellaneous stainless trim is missing from the hood and grill area but owner states he has the original pieces. The tires are in good condition with no dry rotting. Owner states that the car has been dry for over 30 years and I believe him. I was unable to find the S/N or engine plate number, but the owner has all legal paper work for sale. The owner is a very informative figure on the restoration that was performed in the 1980s.

The engine in the car had been hot rodded, or, in other words, modified with period speed equipment. I sold that engine for several reasons but chief among them was the fact that it appeared not to be the original engine. Second the engine had been sitting for so long that I was worried about gaskets and internal corrosion. That was a hard decision. Mr. Skoog and those who helped were skilled and took the time to do many things correctly but they were not strict restorationists. The wiring was modernized. Hydraulic brakes were fitted, a different flathead engine was fitted and equipped with speed equipment. In short it was a perfect period hot rod. And when I obtained, I thought I should stay as true as possible to that theme—a period hot rod. But I took it a step further than did Mr. Skoog. I put a small block 283 Chevy in it but utilized a stock appearing transmission that occupied its original place in the frame. No cutting of the firewall or frame was necessary for the conversion.

Of course not everyone will be pleased with Mr. Skoog’s decision or with my decision not to keep this fine old car as original as possible. I understand and respect that debate.

Here is a summary of ownership:

1. Original owner not known: 1938 to 1966

2. Theodore Warzecha: 1966 to 1984

3. Alvin Skoog, Sr.: 1984 to 1987

4. JR Skoog: 1987 to 2014

5. Donald B. Holsinger: 2014 to present

On Jun-19-16 at 12:19:12 PDT, seller added the following information:

Please find photo from our second place finish in Kanab, Utah (Run To The Red Rocks) here:https://www.flickr.com/photos/100030091@N02/albums/72157669422437722

On Jun-19-16 at 20:21:33 PDT, seller added the following information:

Someone has asked whether I still have the flathead that was in the car at the time I acquired it. I do not. I am not certain that it was the original engine and, in any case, it wasn't it great shape. But I do happen to have a remarkably good 255 ci Mercury flathead with the 4" crank and rebuilt by a local racing shop that has been in the flathead business for several decades. This engine has Ford heads (ups the compression slightly) and loads of cool parts. I won't give it away but will make available to the winning bidder at my cost. Frankly I would leave the SBC right where it is but if you have to have a flathead, I have just the ticket for you.
Check out latest photos:https://www.flickr.com/photos/100030091@N02/albums/72157669422437722

On Jun-21-16 at 16:57:34 PDT, seller added the following information:

I've been asked a couple of times about the radiator because several of the photos show the stock Ford radiator.I failed to put the radiator brand and cost in the table but it is a custom built aluminum item, three rows, and fitsperfectly in the slanted position Ford designed for it. I couldn't make a mechanical fan fit. The water pump is a newaftermarket all aluminum piece that is advertised to pump more water. There are two electric fans currently mounted,a pusher and a puller. The coolant was just replaced two weeks ago in preparation for the show in southern Utah.It is 50 percent distilled water and 50 percent mix of antifreeze and a couple of "water wetter" type products.
The battery is new like two weeks new because I messed up the old Optima battery. You can't let these Optimabatteries run down. They will not charge after being fully discharged. Fortunately Auto Zone agreed to replace mine.So it is new. I have a quick release on the negative terminal which keeps the battery from running down.