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66 Ford Early Bronco Uncut Springtime Yellow Upgraded for Reliability & Safety

For sale: 1966 Ford Bronco

Technical specifications

Item location:
Mooresville, North Carolina, United States
Make:
Ford
Model:
Bronco
Type:
U/K
Trim:
Base
Year:
1966
Mileage:
100,000
VIN:
U151FL833048
Color:
Yellow
Engine size:
2.8L 2786CC 170Cu. In. l6 GAS OHV Naturally Aspirated
Number of cylinders:
6
Fuel:
Gasoline
Transmission:
Manual
Drive type:
U/K
Interior color:
Black
Vehicle Title:
Clear
Contact the seller / ! Report

Description

Shipping: I will assist in shipping this Bronco to anywhere in the world, as long as Buyer understands they must cover all costs. I can also deliver the Bronco myself within a couple hours drive off Mooresville, NC. Send messages if you have any questions on shipping.
Selling my 66 Ford Bronco, I have dumped a lot of money into this car so I will just list everything. Since its the first year of the Bronco with the original engine, I tried to keep the look original but upgraded a few things to make it more reliable and driveable (listed below you'll see many updates). For instance, it has uncut quarters and steel wheels, but has a brand new complete premium Haywire wiring harness. It has the OEM engine, but its been given an upgraded Carter carb and modern HEI ignition (which dramatically helped the power). Among with other upgrades, it makes this a reliable but still classic Bronco. Clean title in hand
Engine
-Original i6 170 engine, still with original 66 factory blue paint. Runs great no smoke, no misses.
-The engine has a couple upgrades
--Autolite 1100 1bbl carb removed and a Carter YF 1bbl installed in its place
--OEM Points distributor removed and HEI distributor installed
--new aluminum radiator with a electric fan (automatically switched by coolant sensor)
--new cooling system hoses throughout
Body/Frame
-painted original color to the car, 66 Ford Springtime Yellow and Wimbledon White
-original roof installed(can be removed)
-body sheet metal is either OEM good condition or replaced
-all new floors, quarters, and rear wheel tubs
-new floor support crossmembers
-all new rubber weatherstripping, even all new glass seals
-frame in great condition, rust free and straight
-all new fuel lines and hoses
-new door and ignition locks, matched to use the same key
-new door handles
Driveline/Brakes/Suspesion
-oem trans, transfer case, and diffs, all in great condition
-complete new brake system (new master cylinder, wheel cylinders, all new lines, all new hoses, all new fittings, all new shoes)
-just put on brand new Goodyear tires 235/75/15 on Ford steel wheels, painted Wimbledon White
-new shocks
-lifted 2 inches
Electrical
-100% new wiring throughout the car, which is a new Haywire harness with modern fuse box
-wipers converted to electric
-all new custom made battery cables
-new solenoid, rebuilt starter, new ignition switch, new headlight switch, new dimmer switch, new battery
Interior
-Oem Ford Bronco seats with all new black upholstery and new foam
-interior floor painted the matching yellow (not covered with bedliner to hide repair-work)
-no radio
specific comments on condition:

*Since it has all new weatherstripping the doors aren't easy to get closed to the 2nd latch. For anyone that has done all new weatherstripping, its something you know all about. Thats just the way they will be for the next 6-12 months until that rubber gets crushed. I've been leaving it out in the sun with the doors closed to the 2nd latch to help expedite the process. The doors have been adjusted out some to help compensate, which you can see in the pictures. This situation is magnified by the fact Bronco doors are very lightweight, weighing probably less than half your average car door, so just slamming them shut isn't a good idea and doesn't help anything.
*Until you get a good feeling of the clutch, first gen 6 cylinder Broncos with aftermarket clutches are notorious for being sensitive. The clutch is a recent install, in good condition and does not slip, you just have to get a feel for how to properly slip the clutch into engagement, if you lug the engine too much, it will shake the car. You just need to get a feel for how much to slip.
*To elaborate on the "paint flaws" there are 2 small spots where the painter wet sanded too far (one on the drivers door, one on the hood). There is also your typical low amount of scratches or chips here or there from normal use.
*The OEM water and oil gauges were both checked and tested and work accurately. The speedometer also works accurately. The gauge backlights and turn indicator lights also work. The gas gauge sometimes has a mind of its own, I just tend to know how much gas is in the tank.

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