Up for sale is my 1989 Ford Mustang GT. ~158k miles on body, 10k on motor/trans. Vortech supercharged. Selling it because the rings in the #7 cylinder (3rd back from front drivers side) are bad, ausing the spark plug to foul up almost immediately, nd I can't afford to put any more money into it. I had new Cometic head gaskets put on about 1k miles ago after the old ones blew last year, nd the shop said there was some rust in the #7 cylinder from water sitting in there from the blown gasket, ut that it might last some before a rebuild. So, ith my blessing, e put new gaskets on, nd it ran great for a little bit, ut now it needs to be rebuilt. Will list parts below, asically all the car needs is a new shortblock, r this one rebuilt, nd it should run low 11s on drag radials and high 10s on slicks. I got it to run 12.3@110on drag radials with the only decent launchof the night when it was first put together, nd it's only running 7 lbs of boost and very low/safe timing and AFR then and currently, o there's a lot more in it. I was just not expecting the rings to go this quick, nd I can't put any more money into the car, o it needs to go to a new home instead of sitting in my driveway again for a while. This combo was first in my other Mustang with no Vortech, ut unfortunately I wrecked that one, o I acquired this car from a friend which had the Vortech already installed, nd I just slid my drivetrain in and did all the suspension work. Car is worth at least $9-10k with a good motor, nd it should cost about $3-4k to have a basic shortblock rebuilt and/or installed, o the price reflects that difference. I know what the parts on the car are worth, nd what it's worth parted out, o I won't take any lowball offers, orry.
Body/Chassis -

• '89 GT Hatchback, 158k on body, 10k on motor/trans, hite/grey interior, urface rust in some small spots but otherwise solid, aint peeling off drivers's door from powerwashing (see pic), aint chips on fenders (see pic), aillight housings cracked in a couple places, round effects loose under passengers side door (I was gonna leave the body alone and turn it into a stock-looking sleeper)
• Front suspension - UPR coilover kit/tubular lower control arms with poly bushings, 2'-200 lb springs, trange 10-way struts, aximum Motorsports camber plates, aximum Motorsports bumpsteer kit, tock brake calipers/lines, BC Greenstuff pads, S caliper sleeves, lmost-new rotors/bearings (I was going to lower the front an additional 1/2 in, ut never got around to it)
• Rear suspension - BBK upper/lower control arms with poly bushings, &R Super Sport lowering springs, trange 10-way shocks, ebuilt drums, PR torque box kit (full kit, ully welded, orque boxes aren't going anywhere, ost $1k alone to get installed)
• Rear axle - 8.8, ew 3.55 gears, 1-spline rebuilt Explorer diff, 1-spline Ford Racing axles, ew bearings
• Ford Racing aluminum driveshaft
• Subframe connectors
• 17x8/17x9 4-lug Saleen replica SSC wheels (best design for this body in my opinion), cGard lug nuts/wheel locks
• New 245/45-17 Nitto NT555 front - 275/40-17 Nitto NT555R Drag Radial rear tires (put these on not even 200 miles ago, ld ones wereflat-spotted)
• Interior - stock seats/carpet in good condition, uto Meter water temp/oil pressure/trans temp gauges in 3-gauge pod, oost/fuel pressure gauges on A-pillar, aptor shift light, ld PLX wideband sensor (most of the LED's don't work so hard to tell what display is, ut still functions, ame wired into headlight switch), igh-beams don't work due to broken connector (should be simple fix), oglight switch wires loose (should work with fix and new foglight bulbs), pare center console included as I'm pretty sure the one in the car currently has some cracks, lder Alpine CD player, ew heater core/lines with restrictor (did this myself, hat a pain but should be good now for years), eeds new door lock actuators (old ones already removed)

Motor/Trans -

• Engine - Stock block 302, ored .040 over (308ci total), tock crank/rods, ypereutectic pistons (would replace these in rebuild), tock balancer/flexplate (was going to upgrade with new shortblock), round 9:1 compression
• Box-stock Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads, 4 CC chambers
• Edelbrock Performer intake
• 75MM throttle body/EGR spacer, GR valve deleted
• Crane Cams 2040 cam (same as Ford Motorsport E-303)
• Ford Racing 1.6 roller rockers
• Vortech S-Trim supercharger, ustom 7 lb Reichard Racing pulley (CNC'd fresh when this combo first went together to lower the boost), 0 lb Vortech pulley included with car
• Anderson Power Pipe w/ blow-off valve
• Lightning mass air meter
• 42 lb injectors/255 lph in-tank pump
• A9P/Superchips 5-position switch chip w/custom tune
• MSD 6AL w/built-in 2 step
• Custom aluminum valve covers with huge custom A/N vent lines to catch can
• Summit Racing aluminum radiator, lectric fan with older DC Controls controller, 0 amp fuse
• Unknown 130-amp alternator, pgraded line to battery
• New Interstate battery/cables
• Edelbrock Victor aluminum water pump
• New A/C condensor, eeds new compressor/lines and A/C would be functional, SP A/C delete pulley currently on
• Trans - AOD, ebuilt by Performance Automatic to Super Street specs when combo was first put together ($1300 just for rebuild, ill try to find receipt), ull manualvalve bodyw/trans brake wired into 2-step (car's old trans had this on it, orks great, wapped it over to my PA-rebuilt trans when drivetrain was put in), /D on switch, A deep sump aluminum pan, nknown 3500 stall non-lock converter, I hardened input shaft, &M Hammer shifter, rans brake/reverse button and O/D switch next to shifter
• Exhaust - BBK 1 5/8 unequal-length shorty headers, AC 2 1/2 in off-road Power Chamber H-pipe, pintech Sportsman 2 1/2 in mufflers, ew GT tailpipes (sounds like no other Mustang out there)

That's all I can think of for now, nd I'll update the list if I can think of anything else. I really hate to see the car go, s I've invested an awful lot of time, ersonal energy/agony, nd money into it, ut other things in life have taken over, nd I'm sure it will make someone else very happy. I will drive the car around a little bit to keep the fluids and tires moving. $500 deposit due within 24 hrs with the remainder due within 72 hrs. Clear title in hand. Buyer is responsible for any shipping, ut I will assist with loading the car. Thanks for looking, nd please let me know if you have any questions.

On Aug-21-15 at 06:55:54 PDT, eller added the following information:

Car also has Energy Suspension black poly motor and trans mounts. Suspension/rear end parts have maybe 2-3k on them.

On Aug-21-15 at 12:13:11 PDT, eller added the following information:

All work done by Maryland Performance Center in Frederick, D, une done by George @ MPC.