1968 IH Scout Project

I started this project several years ago and just have too many irons in the fire to be able to finish it. I am going to use bullet points here to list everything that has currently been done to the vehicle:

New Shocks

New Poly Gas Tank and All New Fuel Lines

Complete New Wiring Harness and New Blinker Light Control

Converted Brake System to Power Brakes and All New Lines (Booster and Master Cylinder from CJ5 Jeep)

Converted Single Brl Oil Bath System to New 2 Brl Air System (Needs New Linkage Installed)

New Custom Rear Bumper with Hitch

Custom Tow Bar on Custom Front Bumper

Custom Roll Bars

Rust Removed from Undercarriage and New Metal Welded In

Engine Compartment Sprayed Black

Rear Axle Swap to 8.8 Ford-91 Explorer

Front Axle Swapped for D-30-95 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4

Steering Linkage Swapped for 90Jeep Cherokee

I did these lastfew thingsfor several reasons: One it needed all new ball joints tie rod ends linkage steering etc. on the front end and those parts are impossible to find or impossible to afford if you do! Secondly with the oil bath 1 bl conversion and the new rear end we increased the top end speed by 10-15 mph to around 60-65 while still keeping her geared low enough in first to make her great in the mud or for pulling my boats in and out of a dirt ramp on the lake we fish at. I have a notebook with all exact years and models that all of the replacement parts came from the power brake conversion to the underneath so that parts are readily available at your local parts store and on the cheap! Literally I took a car that sat on almost nothing usable and turned it into something that while cool and different than anything else on the road can be serviced locally or parts had easily and inexpensively and did so professionally and without compromising the integrity and original use of the vehicle! All of these conversions were $3400 alone!

There are a ton of little things I am forgetting! New wires plugs chrome air filter assembly tires (One will need replaced I think it's a bead leak so stopping at a tire shop may get you home if you are using the towbar but I'd bring a standard 15" spare) bulbs seal around front windshield gas pedal etc. She does smoke some but as I was toying with putting a straight six in it I did not do the top end job that would probably resolve that and when I ran it last year as I let it run with some Seafoam in it it nearly resolved itself. The man I bought it from says it sat at a hunting camp unused for years so who knows. It runs smooth but to put it on the road you will have to manufacture linkage for the new carb and put some things back on...grill headlights etc. Also the tires are brand new...less than 100 miles but I let one sit and develop a flat spot so it makes the ride feel rough. It's a common tire and easily matched to the others! Everything it was missing I think I've ordered as far as the tailgate panels that cover the door panels rear view mirror etc. I also have a half cab top that needs to be completely restored as well. I haven't touched it. Below is a link to what I wanted to do with this and what the half cab looks like on. THIS IS NOT REPRESENTATIVE OF THE CONDITION OF THIS VEHICLE! (Yes...someone will ask!)

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/5a/fd/00/5afd009666c5933513a5dd704673e5b3.jpg

Just the carburetor gas tank and wiring harness make up nearly$1200 ofwhat I am asking so it won't come down any. In fact I am starting the price at half of what I estimate I have into it and I do have notebook with all receipts VIN numbers of the parts cars used models and years before and after pictures of rust that was cut and new metal welded in etc. I haven't started it in about a year but if you work the carb linkage yourself it runs great...I actually rigged up cable ties a year ago just to run it up and down the road to see how the new carb was going to function.

Okay lotsa questions about the body. I am not a professional body person and while I hired out the major projects like power brakes fuel lines electrical etc. I have done the body work myself mostly to teach myself. There is nothing more simple to work on for an early project than something that is nearly perfectly square with little curvature! So...first! That is NOT rust along the door bottoms. It had rained the day I took the pictures with my phone and is just the darkened wet primer that had not dried. The ONLY places that had serious rust through were on the underside (leaf springs under panels etc.) I paid a professional welder to cut and replace anything that needed replaced. The only aesthetic places that had true rust through are 1.) the tailgate which I have a new one to replace that old one 2.) the bed which is completely straight. My welder suggested a single 4x8 sheet of matt black diamond plate be welded in and the entire bed cut out. It is straight forward repair or you can simply patch weld the spots up by the driver area. They are rusted through because the previous owner made a metal gas tank and set it in the bed rather than spend the $700 I did for a true replacement tank and new fuel lines. When I removed that tank it was packed with moldy mildew wet leaves pine needles etc. All that being said there is some filler used on some of the straight panels. I think I did a pretty good job on my body work but I wanted to put most of my money into really doing the hard stuff right and then an inexpensive paint job for a few years until I could pay for a really good paint job.

This really was only meant for pulling my boats or trailing my 49 Farmall around. So the exterior was going to come down the road...the filler was used in small dents that were too hard to pull out. I am NOT a fan of screwing holes into the metal with dent pullers and I wasn't strong enough to pound them out from the underside with blocks. This is some thick-ass metal! As I said in answering a question earlier I had one buckled fender and had to use a comealong and a live oak to pull it straight!

Okay! More interest more questions: I am going to try and add some more before/after body work pictures because I need to make sure you understand anything that could not EASILY and safely be filled with minimal bondo was already cut out removed and replaced with good heavy metal. Most of this work was done where it does not show such as under the seat the inside fender wheels etc. So I'll do my best.

In addition I have added the years of the parts cars used above to nail done for you what was improved but the essence is that this thing steers like a 90's model Jeep and not a 68 IH now and when you need to replace something on the steering column front end pitman arms tierods etc. you will replacing common parts not scouring the earth for high priced used IH parts that will need some rebuilding themselves!

Lastly I have had several of you doubt the model and year so I have provided the VIN for you...which I really don't like doing online. It is a Scout 800 built in Feb of 68. Part of the confusion is a used the "Sell One Like It" link on a 69 800B and forgot to erase the "B" in my title. Make no mistake. This is a 68 800 before the A's or B's were introduced and for some the most sought after. Some of you thought it was an A or a B or a 67 or a 69. Here is the link straight from Vinwiz confirming from the plant its designation:

http://www.vinwiz.com/1966-1971ihc_light.php?vin=781905G293140

I am in Riverview Fl just south of Brandon.

I have only a Bill of Sale to offer but will guarantee title as that is all Florida requires on an antique vehicle.