This may be the most original Land Rover Series 1 80 inch LHD vehicle in the world. There are several nice original RHD Land Rovers in England, ut this particular left hand drive model was sold new in California in 1951 as a North American Distribution Area (NADA) export vehicle, nd great efforts were made to restore it as close as possible to its originality. The 80 inch model denoted the wheelbase length in inches, nd it was the first ever Land Rover, uilt between 1948 and 1953, eing replaced by the 86 inch wheelbase model in 1954. Finding a LHD 80 inch Land Rover in complete, riginal shape is near impossible as most of these Land Rovers have been modified, utchered, eat up, r altered in more ways than one since being imported more than six decades ago. Also, inding an original 80 inch with the optional rear PTO pulley and matching engine governor is rare as hens’ teeth.

The original 80 inch 1.6 liter engines were underpowered, nd had a Siamese cylinder design on the center two cylinders that restricted cooling, o many 1.6 engines were replaced with the later 2.0 liter Land Rover engine that bolted right in place. Or many of these 80 inch Land Rovers have been “upgraded” with a whole host of American replacement engines. Even an original transmission and transfer case is hard to find without some sort of ‘modification’.

This 1951 80 inch Land Rover is very original. Every Whitworth nut, olt, asher, astener, olt, pacer, lip and spring is 100% original and in excellent condition. The original numbers matching 1.6 liter engine, ransmission, ransfer case, xles, ll here. Nothing has been adapted, hanged or modified other than the addition of a spin-on oil filter adapter. You can only purchase this spin-on oil filter kit if you are a member of the Land Rover Series 1 club in England. This kit can easily be removed and replaced with an original 80 inch canister oil filter if so desired.

A list of matching numbers is at the end of this summary. The photos included in this listing were taken yesterday in my back yard.

I bought my first 1951 Land Rover almost fifteen years ago as an ambitious project, nd then purchased another 1951 Land Rover, nd then a third. Even though I acquired three 1951 Land Rovers, ll from California, ll three were in rough shape, issing many parts, r suffering cuts and modifications that leave you to wonder. I also acquired the complete small parts inventories from two separate Series 1 Land Rover enthusiasts in Canada to help with my restoration. My extensive collection of Whitworth nuts, olts and studs has proven very helpful. No rusted bolts, o rounded off nuts, o frozen or stuck bolts, o broken caged nuts, ll the fasteners are in fantastic shape. You can take this utilitarian vehicle completely apart in a few days with a few hand tools easily as there are no rusted or broken bolts. Note, his vehicle uses 100% Whitworth bolts, hich requires Whitworth wrenches. There are zero SAE or metric fasteners on this Land Rover.

Let me start with the frame and I will detail the work done on this Land Rover. I had three frames, ut only one frame had not been wrecked, ut on, r welded onto. This one beautiful frame was rust-free and perfectly straight, hich only required light sanding before being primered and then painted its original bronze green color. I painted the frame and all body parts with PPG paint; NCP 280 primer surfacer, hen the color coats with Ditzler acrylic enamel 46451. The tow bar on the rear is uncut and beautiful.

I used the best components from the three 1951 Land Rovers; the best springs, est axles, ifferentials, rake drums, rive shafts, tc., ll went onto this one 1951 Land Rover. I only had one 1.6 liter engine and it luckily had no cracks in the valve seats or freeze plugs (a problem for many) and it cleaned up really nice. The crank had been scored on one journal so I had the machine shop grind and polish it 20/20 thousands under with new crank and rod bearings acquired from Cox and Turner Engineering in England. New water pump, ew fan belt, ew upper and lower radiator hoses, ew cam bearings, ew engine and transmission mounts, ew gaskets, ebuilt generator, ebuilt the carburetor, ew battery, ew fuel pump, ew timing chain, ew wiring from British Wiring Inc., nd the engine starts on first tickover every time and runs nicely. The vacuum diaphragm on the distributor was shot so I carefully replaced it with new material, orks great. I sourced many miscellaneous parts from Dunsfold, ohn Craddock, nd P.A. Blanchard and Co. in the UK. I took all three transmissions completely apart, ncluding the transfer cases. Using the best mated gear sets and shafts, rebuilt one complete unit with new gaskets, eals and bearings. All four forward gears and reverse work as original, s well as high and low four wheel drive. The original front hubs, earings and tracta joints were in excellent condition. New seals were installed. I resurfaced the flywheel and added a new clutch pressure plate and throw-out bearing. The emergency brake system was cleaned and rebuilt with the best components from the three Land Rovers, nd works great.

The original engine governor and linkage was in excellent shape and I only gently cleaned the exterior and refilled with new oil. The rear PTO pulley mechanism needed all new bearings. The oil bath air cleaner is original and was in excellent shape. The battery platform and box assembly are perfectly straight with no corrosion or damage whatsoever. The radiator and metal radiator shrouding are original in excellent condition (try finding an 80 inch Land Rover with the original shroud). The radiator and engine drain cocks are original and work well. The hand throttle control, arburetor enricher, nd governor control all work well. The hood (bonnet) rest strip is genuine NOS as well as all the correct bifurcated brass rivets. These bifurcated rivets are correctly used on both the handbrake rubber boot and the transfer case shifter boot. There are bolt spacers located on the governor, enerator support brackets, nd front timing chain cover which are all factory original.

Of course I used the best body panels and parts. The firewall is steel and was rust free. The rest of the body is aluminum. You would be hard pressed to find an 80 inch Land Rover with all of the floor panels, eat panels, oors, ub, tc. in this nice of shape. Most of these vehicles saw hard duty and the aluminum bodies were beat up pretty bad. All of my front fenders were is really bad shape, o I got on the waiting list in 2006 to purchase newly fabricated aluminum fenders (both inner and outer) from Keith Wadsworth in England (one year waiting list back then, do not know if Keith is making any more fenders these days).

The seats are replicas made by Exmoor Trim out of England. One detail that I added to these seats (a detail that cannot be purchased anywhere, ut is crucial to be original), re the metal corner clips on the seat bottoms. I removed these clips and original screws from the old original seats.

The windshield has new safety glass, nd folds down as original. Some of the 80 inch Land Rovers carried the spare tire on the hood, ome carried the spare tire in the tub. This one carries it in the tub (along with all the correct original fixing hardware), nd has a wonderful original hood with no dents. The doors are all original, ith the original door handles accessible from the inside only. The tail light lenses and license plate lens are all made of glass, s were original. The license plate housing is all steel, nd is a NADA spec only. The front air panel opens and works as new (compete with all the original springs and wingnuts). The hardware on these panels is under designed, o many ended up broken and useless. Finding one that works as original and not missing any parts, s on this Land Rover, s rare.

This Land Rover has the original Bakelite horn button intact and in great shape. Series 1 Land Rover enthusiasts know that most of these horn buttons were broken or cracked with age, nd NOS ones go for $1,000 in the UK. The original horn works great.

I purchased a new (not rebuilt) brake master cylinder from Craddock, nd installed all new wheel cylinders, hoes, rake lines and hoses. All the original brass banjo fittings and brake blocks were cleaned and reused. All the brake adjusting hardware works as new. There are five new 7.00 – 16 military tires and tubes on the vehicle.

Here is a list of items needed to be addressed to make this vehicle a perfect concourse car;

1. Engine work – The engine runs fine but blows some blue smoke due to worn valve guides and piston bores. Drive it as it is (runs great), r make it perfect.

2. Brake Adjustment – After driving the vehicle for a while the brakes should be adjusted periodically to help firm up the brake pedal.

3. Top - If a top is desired, he four missing rope clips can be welded onto the body tub and a new hoop set and canvas hood can be purchased and installed.

4. The wiper motor needs to be rebuilt.

5. Paint – My paint job is a 20 footer (looks great at 20 feet), have some paint drips and some orange peel areas that needs to be addressed.

6. Exhaust Pipe – The foot long pipe exiting the muffler needs to be added.

7. Water valve leak – I noticed when I took the Land Rover out of the garage after sitting most of the winter that there was a small water leak from the copper joint gasket between the water valve and the engine, o this will require attention.

I have a clear California title in my name. You can call me between 8 AM – 8 PM Pacific time with questions or arrange a time to come inspect the vehicle (916.860.9690). I know there may be more details/questions that I can address.

I really hope this vehicle goes to a museum or to someone who really knows Land Rovers. Whoever buys it must pay $1,000 within 24 hours of purchase as a good faith deposit (through PayPal), ith full payment being made within three days by check sent via FedEx. I sold a rare vehicle seven years ago and the buyer was a car dealer/flipper who waited over twelve days to find a buyer for my car and then flip payment, eedless to say it was not a good experience. If I do not receive full payment as detailed above (within three days) you will lose your deposit. No games this time. Please do not bid unless you can carry through with these payment requirements. I can store the Land Rover in my garage for up to one month after full payment, ree of any storage charges. Thanks, eff

The buyer of this Land Rover also gets the following;

The original door tops are included, omplete with Perspex plastic windows (ready to be polished clear), nd reach in flaps.

There is an extra set of wheels (with the original roadworthy 6.00 – 16 Traction tires)

An original owners operation manual (dated April, 950), n excellent original condition.

Two sets of original Bakelite spark plug covers (rare as hens' teeth).

The original copper water pipes that connect the engine to a heater assembly, f you decide to install a heater in the future.

An original crank handle to start the engine if the battery is ever low.

Matching numbers:

Frame: 16136015 (1951 LHD starting number 16130001)

Engine: 16132862 (1951 LHD starting number 16130001)

Governor: Type 545/4, o. 933696, PM: Variable

Transmission: 16132856 (1951 LHD starting number 16130001)

Generator: Lucas 12 - 50

Wheels (9): All marked either 10-50 or 12-50 (with one wheel 64, ot sure where that came from)

Carburetor: 32 PBI K50

Coil: Lucas 1950

Radiator: 4M51

Front Axle: 16131722 (1951 LHD starting number 16130001)

Rear Axle: 16104675 (1951 LHD starting number 16100001)

Rear PTO: 865124

Rear Pulley Housing: 860890