What you are now considering to buy is a slightly crusty, omewhat rusty 1967 MG Midget.
I will be quite frank about this car: it was previously been sitting for about 20 years outside without any cover except the hardtop. I have recently put the car into the condition that it currently sits.
Body:
It is overall structurally sound. As shown in the pictures, he bottom of the driver, ear fender resembles Swiss cheese and the passenger floor pan has significant holes and is considerably thin from heavy surface rust. In addition the driver side A-pillar has a bit of rust-through. Other than that, he rest of the body has no rot and only surface rust.
If you like patina, his car has a cool look. If you don't like patina, t looks terrible. It was painted over 25 years ago by someone inexperienced (if I'm polite) and as a result the white paint has cracked over every square inch.
Interior:
There is old but still decent carpet in the trunk and behind the seats. No other carpet remains (much to the relief of the suffering floor pans). The seats aren't terrible; the driver seat having suffered on one corner from a mouse's hunger. The door panels are warped but not disgusting. The steering wheel rim now resembles a churro (a fried-dough pastry based snack) and is probably not suitable for driving. The gauges all look to be in decent cosmetic condition but I have no idea of their working order because the wiring was hacked by the previous owner.
Electrical:
Parts of the wiring loom have been severely hacked. The front headlight/blinker loom was cut off along with most of the dash wiring though, he key does work. I installed a new starter, uel pump, oil, istributor cap, park plug wires, oints, ondenser and spark plugs.
Brakes:
I just finished completely rebuilding the brakes front to back.
This included:
-Sandblasted/powder coated pedals/pedal box
-New brake and clutch master cylinders
-Two new hard lines were carefully bent and installed to replaced deteriorated ones
-All new stainless steel braided lines
-Rebuilt calipers and cylinders
-New shoes and pads
-New front rotors and the rear brake drums have been machined
Clutch:
It has refreshed hydraulics and is in working order.
Transmission:
Shifts through all gears normally.
Gas Tank:
It is clean on the inside and has been flushed. The previous owner welded a metal shell around the original tank which has preserved it nicely.
Engine:
It has a Dellorto dual barrel carburetor fitted to it from the late 80s but the manifold is broken at the mounting bolt (it can be fixed if you know someone who can weld cast aluminum). I can include a complete original pair of SU carburetors but they will cost extra.
The engine was frozen but I tool all precautions to free it (soaking the cylinders with Mystery Oil overnight then using gradual pressure with a breaker bar). I was able to get it running but it was leaking oil severely from the head gasket and the rear main seal so I did a compression check and pulled the head.
Here's what I found:
-Compression #1 130lbs, 2 15lbs (not a type-o), 3 100lbs, 4 125lbs
-Chipped valve on cylinder #2
-Cracked block/cylinder sleeve between cylinder #1 and water port 1, ylinder #2 and water port 1 and 2, ylinder #3 and water port 2 and 3, ylinder #4 and water port 3.
If you're still reading at this point, ou know that this engine will require a complete rebuild.
If something nice was to be said about this engine then I might dare say that the exhaust manifold is in very nice condition.
Spare parts:
-The rest of the new brake line kit
-New radiator hoses
-Various engine gaskets and seals (including a new head gasket)
-Spare wire wheel
-Original jack and wheel wrench
-Hardtop
Scammers BEWARE! This is not my first rodeo.
If you have any questions or would like more pictures, lease contact me through eBay and we can talk on the phone and I can send more photos.