1970 Volvo 1800e originally fuel injected-converted to carburetor. Engine rebuilt by previous owner but can't physically confirm. Weber 32/36 DGEV. New triple core radiator with electric fans w/manual override, ower steering added from a 140 series vehicle(nice), ftermarket power windows(right one goes down 1/2 way-needs alignment), inyl top added after new paint in '12. New gasketing on body, /c works, eather seats, ostly new interior/headliner, arpet, runk seals tightly, ew driveshaft bearing and u-joints, rakes redone, ew gas tank, 964 bumper set(dings on top), 971 grill, ore... Car is ready to drive but stopped driving it after overdrive stopped working. I put in new solenoid but didn't help. I believe the overdrive oil pump o-rings are shot. I have a replacement overdrive end you can rebuild and swap. A/c vents are standard from Volvo inside, ut the evaporator and everything outside is new and aftermarket(this is the only way to do it and have it work)-blows 53degrees. Power steering works nicely but front end needs idler arm I think(drifts in the lane a little). Steering set came from a 1974 Volvo 142. Resevoir on drivers side, ump on passenger side. A universal steering shaft was fabricated to accomodate the power steering box mounted on framerail. This is what Volvo used to call "the swap" in the 70's. Radiator is aftermarket alluminum triple core with fans ahead of the condenser. Dash gauges were converted to 12v and replaced with aftermarket but true to era gauges(these work). Tach and speedometer work but speedometer reads 15% too fast for some unknown reason(Cable sender is 21 tooth). Paint was cleared but uncut-will polish up nicely. New windshield/dash cap. So much to remember... Car shows fairly well but needs a few things to be better. Rust hole in right front cowl drain and has some bubbling along rocker(as they all do), inor hole in rf floor over frame support, eft front fender behind headlight, verdrive fixed. Mileage shown is probably not original. Left rear rocker inside needs some sheet metal repair as does the right side outboard of passenger seat area(common to these cars). Trunk floor exellent-interior floor is good but has some laminated sheetmetal in some areas welded in place and is sturdy. Right front vent drips occasionally from gasket between door and jamb gasket.(this will be where the little hole is surprise surprise). The good includes that the car starts instantly, as electronic ignition from Hot Spark, rives nicely with great pickup. The rebuilt engine has a wierd odd miss here and there. It runs great-only an engineers ear would feel it. I believe the previous owner did some kind of mild cam job. With new plugs you hardly feel it, fter 2-3k miles it starts to become evident. but again, t's a minor thing. This is an honest assessment of this car. It is not show or parade, ut it is decent and reliable and can be made to what you prefer. I have a ton of parts that can be made available to the right buyer-bumpers, ranny, pair of rust free doors(green), lass, uspension etc. Please ask questions-I'm sure you will have some. This will be updated as the item runs it's course. I bought another car so I don't drive this much anymore-the lack of overdrive is what did it. The overdrive end can be rebuilt by a shop in CT who specializes in these old transmissions for 400.00 plus parts.

On Jul-17-15 at 05:56:51 PDT, eller added the following information:

In response to the many questions about this car, am adding these pictures and information. The rust repair needed on the RF fender extends into the floor frame crossmember which is welded to the rocker inside portion. It will need a replacement floor support(possibly supplied by me) and some sheetmetal repair to the inside of the existing rocker frame. Not a big deal. I did the left side 3 years ago with a mig welder although some more sheet metal work should be done there as well. The rest is superficial. There is a new fuel tank with new electronic sending unit matched to the new fuel gauge. The exhaust system is new and stainless and joined the the existing header with a flex coupler. At the time of the new exhaust, installed an aftermarket header and matched the forpipe to it. After finding out that the new header had a manufacturing flaw where it didn't sit flat against the head, he old original 2 pipe header went back on. All is stainless except for some reducing sleeves and clamps. The shop in CT which repairs these overdrives is Quantum Mechanics located in Monroe or Oxford CT. 203 463 8299 He is John Esposito. Oil pressure at idle 45 lbs-55 max. Ammeter works-all fusible links are moved up to the cowl shelf for easy access. Speedometer has stopped working but the odometer runs-time for a new one...Front and rear windshield gaskets are new-no leaks there-no rust in the grooves. Carpet and padding are 2 years old including padding on the firewall. Heat works-has new temperature controller from Sweden. Taillight lenses are mismatched. Trunklock matches the door lock key. Gas door lock is new. No rust under tear seat. Seat belt retractors need to be secured at rear floor-belts have some primer overspray on them. Front seats are beautiful leather. Headliner is black perforated marine with insulating pad under roof. A/C system is from Nostalgic Auto Air from Tampa Florida and works well including the thermostat and blower switch which is original Volvo. For the a/c to work well, ou must cover the cowl at the base of the windshield to prevent outside air from coming in. I don't know why Volvo never did this, ut I use a plastic shopping bag under the grill and snap the grill back down. Inside is a refridgerator on wheels. PCV oil trap could use replacement. Updated intake has pcv valve installed with breather to air cleaner which is remote on the fender and came from an Opel gt-good fit. Car is set-up for winter driving with a preheat valve on the intake switching between heated air from the exhaust manifold to cold air from ahead of the bulkhead. Tires are fair to good-rears are better. Brakes have just been redone, ll calipers work. Proportioning valve light does not come on. Cooling fans are electric with temp sensor in lower hose-manual override switch is underdash. A/c is 134a. Drivers door lock sticks sometimes-I would replace it if you can find a new mechanism. Rear seat bottom is mounted on plywood. Original seating was shot. Seat back is new and swings down. Car has new cassette stereo with separate amplifier with passive bazooka sub in trunk. EQ is neatly indash where the ashtray used to be.