PLEASE NOTE: I have decided to list my 1976 BMW 2002 for sale with a valuable assortment of extra parts, ncluding: a rare set of 4 BMW 2002 factory-option Bottle Top Wheels, ade by either Mahle or FPS, est. value at least $1,000)(Good luck finding another set for sale ... and "No, hese wheels are not the dime-a-dozen "e30 bottle cap" rims. These wheels have been referred to as bottle tops, ottle caps, oup plates, oup dishes, urbo rims, nd the late OEM alloys. They are seldom seen and very hard to find.), set of 2 rust-free BMW 2002 Inca Orange doors (est. value at least $500), nd BMW 2002 door weatherstripping (est. value $400.00). Please contact me if you wish to purchase any of the extra parts separately, ithout buying the car. I will consider listing the extra parts for sale separately via Ebay buy-it-now listings.
PICTURES: I have posted 24 pictures of the car and of the extra parts, ith the exception of the weatherstripping. I have attempted to show the car in its true form. There are no glamour shots. The photos were recently taken by me with my iphone, nd they have not been retouched. It appears that eBay will not allow me to post any additional pictures here. If you require additional photos, lease contact me. Be sure to include your email address and telephone number, nd I will be happy to talk to you first before I send the photos to you.
HISTORY OF THE CAR: BMW stopped making the Model 2002 in 1976. My 1976 BMW 2002 is one of the last 2002's made by BMW. It is a survivor. It does not appear that this car has ever been in an accident. I bought the car in Maryland about 12 years ago. The previous owner told me that he had owned the car for about three years, hat he stored it in his brother's garage, nd that he rarely drove it. He decided to sell the car because he had just purchased a Mini with a great stereo system. The previous owner told me that he had bought the car from a doctor who had spent a considerable amount of money to have the car restored. The car was very presentable. The body was very straight. The chrome was very nice. The interior of the car was in excellent condition. It was apparent that the paint job was less than ideal, owever, nd that the car would benefit from a fresh paint job. The clear coat had begun to fail. There were a couple of dents, everal scratches, nd some surface rust. One day a couple of years after I had bought the car, discovered that several rust holes in the rocker panels had been concealed with a combination of tape, aint, ndercoating, aziness, nd guile. That was not a good day.
THE GREAT: My car is DEPENDABLE and FUN TO DRIVE. I have driven the car about 15,000 miles during the past 12 years. It has never let me down. The engine has plenty of pep, nd it handles well. I have enjoyed owning and driving the car. I hope that the next owner will enjoy owning and driving it, s well.
THE GOOD: This car is my TOY. I smile when I see it. Others do, oo. It reminds me of my childhood. I was only 14 years old when this car was made. I'm sure that it's in better shape than I was at 40 years old. The car transforms the mundane task of everyday driving into an adventure. This car is a "driver," but it is not my "daily driver." It attracts a lot of attention. I get a lot of "thumbs up" from other drivers. The next owner could restore the car, odify it for racing, r drive it in its present condition. The car starts, dles, uns, nd stops as it should. It is equipped with a 4 speed manual transmission, unroof, og lights operated by a rare original BMW oem auxiliary fog light switch with a yellow button (about $200.00), eber 32/36 carburetor, nd aftermarket alloy wheels (maker unknown). The previous owner told me that he had replaced the muffler with "the better, porty one, hich makes a delightful sound." I like it, oo. The sunroof does not leak. It opens and closes with ease The seats had been reupholstered before I purchased the car. They are very comfortable. The door cards are in excellent condition. They are not cut for stereo speakers. The shock towers are rust free. Last year, replaced the Interstate battery, wo tires, nd the clutch master cylinder. Also, had the Weber 32/36 carburetor rebuilt. The tires are in good condition. All of the lights work. The horn works. The car is registered in Virginia as an Antique Vehicle; therefore, t does not need a yearly inspection. I'm sure that it could pass one. I paid a one time fee to Virginia DMV to have the car registered as an Antique Vehicle. I believe the cost was only $50.00. Insurance is cheap for this antique vehicle.
THE NOT SO GOOD: The car would benefit greatly from a quality paint job. It has a couple of minor dents, ome rust (see below for details), nd the clear coat has failed. The motor uses some oil. It's done so since I owned it. It's not uncommon for an older car to use some oil. I change the oil every 3,000 miles. I use Castrol 10W40 for high mileage vehicles. I check the oil when I fill the gas tank, nd I add oil when it needs it. The dash has a couple of cracks. The blower motor does not work. It didn't work when I bought the car. The sunroof crank handle "droops" due to a bad spring. It's a common problem. The door weatherstripping is worn; however, he car comes with a set of new door weatherstripping, hich I would encourage the new owner to install AFTER painting the car. The roll-up windows go up and down, ut the regulators should be adjusted or replaced. The hazard light switch is held closed by a push pin (a simple fix to a common problem). The BMW hazard light switch was poorly designed. The trim piece on the driver's door is not in the best condition. There are only three wheel caps thanks to Merchant's of Harrisonburg, hich broke one of the four wheel caps when they serviced the car. The service manager promised to provide me with a set of matching wheel caps. I am still waiting for him to keep his promise. The brake master cylinder is leaking and should be replaced. It's a small repair (about $140.00 for the part and labor), hich I may have done before the car is sold. Because the car has a carburetor, tarting the car in cold weather is not as easy as starting it when the weather is warm. That's normal, olks.
WHAT WILL IT COST TO PAINT THE CAR? I have been quoted a minimum price of $2,000.00 to have the car re-painted in its original color by a local shop that specializes in BMW 2002 restorations: E&E Body Shop and Restoration in Broadway, irginia, hich is owned and operated by John Estep (540) 421-1095. John is familiar with my car, nd he would like the opportunity to paint it. I am familiar with his work. He would do a good job for $2,000. I am considering hiring John to paint my car. John told me that the price of a paint job would range from $2,000 to $5,000. He also told me that with a $5,000.00 paint job performed by him, y car could be worth $15,000.
WHERE'S THE RUST? Much of the rust on my car is just surface rust and can be easily fixed. The rear shock towers, pare tire well, as tank area, nd driver and passenger floors are rust free. The driver's side rocker panel had rust in two places, hich has been repaired. (I have pictures I can send to you.) The passenger side rocker panel has two small rust holes (about the size of a half dollar, aybe). (I will take pictures and send them to you.) The hood has two small areas of rust just above the chrome trim above the turn signal, hich is visible in Picture no. 1. Also, here is some surface rust below the windshield, hich is visible in Picture nos. 13-16. The trunk lid has some surface rust below the back window, hich visible in Picture no. 12. The driver's door has some rust under the bubbling paint near the left front tire, hich is visible in Picture no. 13. The passenger side rear quarter panel has some rust under the chrome trim near the right rear tire, hich is visible in Picture no. 18. The front valence (air dam) has some surface rust, hich is visible in Picture no. 19. On the passenger side, he small area designated to place the jack stand near the rear wheel has rust, isible in Picture no. 20. There is some rust on the driver's side quarter panel which is visible when the hood is open. (I will take a picture and send it to you.) There is some surface rust on the roof near the rain gutter trim. (I have pictures I can send to you.) There is some surface rust near the windshield. ( I will take pictures to send to you.)
Below you will find an excerpt of a posting I found online. It reveals that the rust on my car is minimal for a BMW 2002.
1. Rust:
As with any older car from the 60's or 70's, he most important thing to look for is the condition of the body. You MUST carefully inspect the vehicle for any signs of rust. The most common points of rust on 02's can be found in:
Rear shock towers
The spare tire well
The gas tank area
The lower rocker panels on each side of the car
The driver and passenger floors (esp. on '76 cars, he passenger floors go bad)
The front fenders also tend to rust, specially around the turn signals and where it meets the front nose. Fortunately, hey are very easy and relatively inexpensive to replace. Other areas that deserve attention are the bottom of the doors, he rim around the front hood and rear trunk and also the front strut tower assembly. Also look under the car and check the frame rails connecting the front crossmembers to the floors.
That having been said, on't let a little rust deter you from buying an 02. Some rust is merely surface rust and other forms of rust can easily be repaired. So long as you are aware of what the car has and needs before you buy it, nd as long as the vehicle is priced right accordingly you will be fine. (citation omitted pursuant to eBay rules) credit to Mars - Stanceworks forums - What to look for when buying a BMW 2002.

THE EXTRAS: The car is listed for sale with a valuable assortment of extra parts, ncluding: a rare set of 4 BMW 2002 factory-option Bottle Top Wheels made by either Mahle or FPS (est. value $1,000), set of 2 rust-free BMW 2002 Inca Orange doors (est. value $500), nd BMW 2002 door weatherstripping (est. value $400.00). I posted a picture of the Bottle Top Wheels, nd I posted a picture of the set of doors. You can see only one of the doors in the picture I posted. It's next to the green Austin Healey Sprite hardtop, hich will be listed for sale shortly. I assure you that there is another orange door hidden from view behind the orange door that is visible in the last photo posted.
WHY AM I SELLING THE CAR? I have decided to go topless ... and to buy a Miata. My preference is to purchase a 1991 (British Racing Green), nbsp;or a 1992 (Sunburst Yellow), r a 1993 (Brilliant Black with Red interior) limited edition model, r maybe a 1997 M edition (Marina Green) or a 2001 M edition (British Racing Green). I haven't decided. If you have a Miata for sale that you would like to discuss with me, welcome you to contact me.
WHY YOU SHOULD BUY A 1976 BMW 2002:For BMW 2002's, he final year was the best year. "The later rectangular taillamp models have their own strong following, s these cars feel a little more solid, nd corner a little flatter, han the earlier models. The one to avoid is the '75 model due to their one-year-only distributor and emissions-strangled engine that resulted in poor performance. These models can be modified easily as every 2002 mechanical part is interchangeable among the car's entire production run. Since all the bugs were worked out by the time the final 1976 models were produced, hese are, ithout question, he best-built 2002s of them all." Hemmings (citation omitted pursuant to eBay rules)
1976 is the last year of the 2002. No major exterior changes were made, ut the emission controls were removed for the 49-state version (non-California) cars. Thermal reactors are no more, hich was a welcomed changed. Rear axle ratio is lowered on 49-state cars to improve acceleration up to a higher numerical 3.9:1 vs the original 3.64:1. A new cylinder head (designated the E21 2.0) is used which is the same one the 320i's eventually adopt. The non "49 State" version California cars are identical to '75 models. The '76's are by far the easiest to maintain and own. By 1976 BMW had ironed out all of the problems and as a result the '76's are the most reliable all around models. These are perfect for the first time 02 owner. (citation omitted pursuant to eBay rules) credit to Mars - Stanceworks forums - What to look for when buying a BMW 2002.
DOES THE AIR CONDITIONING WORK? No. The car did not come with a/c. It is rare to find a BMW 2002 with a/c. (When I receive this question, know I am dealing with someone unfamiliar with the BMW 2002 model.
DOES THE CAR HAVE A RADIO? Of course not. What's the point? I enjoy the gentle purr, nd sometimes roar, f the sound of the exhaust. Would you install a stereo in your Ferrari? I think not. If you want to listen to the radio, uy a Honda.
DO YOU BELIEVE THAT THE MOTOR NEEDS TO BE REBUILT? No, ot at this time. The motor has plenty of power. It runs fine. The car emits blue smoke on the overrun, hich is associated with bad valve seals and worn valve guides. See below:
2. Engine
This applies to both fuel injected models and carb'ed models. Check for any excessive smoking due to oil burning. Note the color of the smoke as well. It can smoke in either blueish, hite, r grayish black. The color of the smoke will indicate whether it's simple humidity off of the exhaust manifold, ossible blown headgasket, orn valve rings, tc.. Here are some examples of colors and symptoms:
Blue smoke on 02's is most often seen on the overrun, eaning if you decelerate from high rpm speeds suddenly a blue puff of smoke would come out of the tail pipe. Blue smoke is the result of oil burning and most often associated with bad valve seals and worn valve guides. This is not major but will require attention down the line. Just be sure to check the oil level regularly. (citation omitted pursuant to eBay rules) credit to Mars - Stanceworks forums - What to look for when buying a BMW 2002.
IF YOU KEEP THE CAR, AME THREE THINGS YOU WOULD WANT TO DO TO IT: 1. Paint it. 2. Fix the blower motor. 3. Install electric windows (I am not a fan of roll-up windows).
WHO ELSE HAS WORKED ON YOUR CAR? John Davis of Classic Motorsports in Weyers Cave, irginia also is familiar with my car. I highly recommend Classic Motorsports. John is a skilled mechanic, nd his shop does good work. John can be reached at (540) 234-0707.
I JUST WANT THE CAR. WHAT IS YOUR BEST PRICE? You answer my question first. "What is the highest price you are willing to pay for just the car?" I refuse to negotiate the price of the car with someone over the telephone. There's no point. I will negotiate the price of the car in person with someone with cash in hand who makes the time and who takes the effort to make an appointment with me to inspect the car, ho keeps the appointment, nd who makes a serious offer to purchase the car. I have neither the time nor the patience for dreamers, chemers, ire kickers, nd various other ne'er-do-wells.
I DIDN'T LIKE THAT ANSWER. REALLY, HAT IS THE LOWEST PRICE YOU WILL TAKE FOR THE CAR?My answer remains the same.
I JUST WANT ONE OR ALL OF THE EXTRA PARTS. WHAT IS YOUR BEST PRICE?First, ou tell me your best offer to buy one or all of the extra parts. I will decide whether or not I will amend this listing by removing one or more of the extra parts that come with the purchase of the car in this listing and to create a buy-it-now listing for the extra part or parts you want to buy separately.
TERMS OF SALE:The car is for sale "as is." I encourage anyone interested in bidding on the car and the extra parts to make an appointment to see the car first. I don't want you to be disappointed with the sale. The car has been listed for sale locally. I reserve the right to end the auction early at any time for any reason or for no reason. Please contact me by email with any questions BEFORE you place a bid. Please include your telephone number. I will call you to discuss. If you intend to have the car shipped, lease let me know the name of the shipper and what arrangements you have made to have the car shipped before you bid. I will not ship the car outside of the continental states of the continental United States. A NONREFUNDABLE deposit of $1,000.00 by Paypal must be received within 2 days of the end of the auction, nd payment in full only by cash or USPS money orders must be received within 3 days of the end of the auction; otherwise, he car will be relisted for sale. Payment in full must be received before the car is released from my possession and the title is transferred.
COMMENT:I received the following comment from an ebay member:
Mrs. malaprop, he obvious concern amongst your list of 'not so good' issues is the rust that you mention on 'several' of the body panels.
do you have any more shots of the 'not so good'
The extent of the rus, specially under the ca, n the floor, long the door sills and at the shock towers. Thank yo, ts a beautiful car and it deserves to be restore, just need to know if I can afford the bodywork.
My very best regards
Mrs. H____, ort lauderdale
MY RESPONSE:I agree with Mrs. H that the car deserves to be restored. I have included as many pictures as Ebay would allow of the "not so good" in this listing. Also, have described the rust I am aware of in great detail. The rust on the car is mostly just surface rust, lthough there are several small areas which have "rusted through." The floor boards, hock towers, nd door sills are rust free.
PLEASE READ THE ENTIRE LISTING BEFORE YOU CONTACT ME.