I’ve owned this 1970 Grand Prix for 13 years. It was a California car through the 90’s and I bought it around 2003 from a GTO collector/parts dealer here in IL. It started as a mildly optioned Model J with power windows, steering, power disc brakes, buckets, console and AC. Yellow with saddle interior.

The interior was removed for the paint job and I was going to switch to a black interior. The seats are excellent with no tears, stains, etc. Buckets are awesome. Door panels are EXCELLENT. If you know GPs, you know these are always destroyed and can cost over $1200 to have Just Dashes restore them. I’ve sold very nice sets for between $400 and $600 over the past 10 years. Driver side is AWESOME. Passenger side has two material “bubbles” under the back of the armrest which looks like the adhesive is pulling away from the cardboard. Not cracked or torn and out of the line of sight when the door is closed. They are very, very difficult to find. Dash is perfect. Still has the original radio and the dash has never been cut out for an aftermarket stereo. Another very rare feat if you know GPs. Console is very nice but the lid/door will need replacing as it’s worn on the edges. The headliner material was removed as well for the switch to black but nothing was removed such as bows, seat belt clips, sunvisors, etc.

The body is rust free and super, super straight. When I decided to paint the car, I was going back to factory because I like “stock” cars. As I began blocking I was amazed at how dent and ding free the car was. It was the straightest car I’ve ever started on. My painter convinced me to go to black because it was so nice. Yes, there is Evercoat for flattening panels but this is a rust free body. Not a little rust free. CA rust free. There were two small areas on the rear wheel wells and tulip panel that were completely removed and fabricated by Mike Ardito many years ago who does million dollar cars and has been featured in MuscleCar review, Café Racer (TV show), Popular Hot Rodding and dozens of other media outlets. He’s a lifelong friend. There was rust through on the lower fenders where leaves and moisture accumulate and I used factory rust free lower fender panels complete with all factory bracing to replace it. The repair is flawless. The cowl and floors are rust free and awesome. The carpet (which I was going to replace) is out of the car so you can see the factory paint and true condition of the floors. All lips, seams, pinch welds, etc are all rust free and awesome. The car was completely blown apart for paint so all jambs, cowl, lips, etc are all painted correctly. It’s a complete and correctly done color change. It is an $7000 paint job from start to finish including approximately $2k in materials. Paint was done on my bodywork by FD Customs which has done incredible numbers-matching restorations and Barret Jackson “custom” cars. I’m fortunate to have really talented friends!

The trunk floor was perfect as well but while sitting outside between jobs while the weatherstripping was out, water sat underneath the da** rubber matt and flaked the floor and caused several pinholes to form. All very minor and not needing replacement but they are now there. Stupid, stupid mistake on my part but minor.

We stole the hood from a tach hood car at the last minute and rushed it through paint so I can drive it this summer. The shrinkage under the paint is showing now. It still looks fantastic but I was going to block it down and have repainted this off-season. It still looks great.

All the chrome is really nice. Not show but really nice driver quality. I still have to put the locks back in, rocker moldings on and the vinyl top trim, but it’s all there and nice. THE VINYL TOP IS BRAND NEW ($600). All glass was pulled and re-sealed. All lights and signals work. All power windows work.

Over the years I’ve completely gone through it mechanically. The open rear end was completely rebuilt for just under $1000 less than 5,000 miles ago. The entire drivetrain is new and a complete beast but here’s the caveat…THE CAR IS BEING SOLD AS A ROLLER. I need the complete drivetrain and fuel system for another vehicle. Factory disc brakes have less than 5,000 miles on them. It will come with wheels and tires for rolling/transporting but I’m keeping the redlines. The AC compressor and brackets are included but not mounted as the motor is coming out. It rides and drivers very nice and tight.

I’ve created a FaceBook page to chronicle the restoration including some video. Go there to take a look at EVERYTHING that’s been done, including in-progress photos of all the work. Look up “1970 Pontiac Grand Prix Restoration”. Send me a friend request and I’ll add you so you can see the pics!

In a nutshell, you’re buying a beautiful and rust free 1970 Grand Prix roller with brand new and killer paint that is super straight. It’s not a “show car” on a national level but is a hero-quality hot rod for ANY cruise night or local show. It currently runs and drives and absolutely nothing is hacked under the hood. It is ready for a replacement motor of your choice. Truly plug-in and drive. To be clear, the motor/trans/fuel system/tank are coming out for another car. The auction is for a killer GP that needs your drivetrain. The drivetrain is staying in until (and if) the car sells. If the car does sell, I’ll need 2 weeks from the close of the auction to pull the drivetrain. If it doesn’t, I’ll leave it together and enjoy for the rest of the season.

$1000 non-refundable deposit due within 48 hours of auction close. Transportation is your responsibility but I’m happy to help in any way I can.