For sale is my 1980 911SC black on black coupe. It is and has been my daily driver since 2005. I’m going to explain as much detail about this car as I can so that the winning bidder knows exactly what they are getting. If you have any questions that are not addressed below. I’m glad to answer them. This is a no reserve no negotiation auction at or above the starting price. The winning bidder has one week to complete the transaction or the bid will be forfeit. The car has clear title and the pink slip is in my name. The car is currently registered and insured. I reserve the right to end the auction but I can’t imagine why I’d do that unless the top bidder is screwing around. If you are the next highest bidder and the high bidder fails to complete the transaction in one week. I’m likely to contact you to see if you want the car for your high bid. Please view all the photos and read the full ad before bidding. I am looking for a serious buyer and the winner should be prepared to take delivery of the car in San Diego within one week of winning the auction. Please bid responsibly. The sale will be settled in cash or I am willing to consider a simple escrow but I’ll walk away abruptly if the winning bidder smells of a scam or has a squirrely financial situation. Mileage – I estimate the car has 300. 00 miles on it. I bought the car with 121. 00 miles on it in 2005 and put it to daily use. I changed out the 85 MPH speedo for a 150 MPH speedo within the first year and not long after. the ODO gear stripped. I have a spreadsheet of my commute and recreational miles that I will give to the buyer that is very accurate. But in any case. I’m not representing this as a low mile car and I tell people (with pride) that the car runs and performs well at 300. 00 miles. Reason for selling the car – I love this car and would prefer to keep it and restore the mechanicals and cosmetics over time. but I don’t have the resources and/or time to take this car all the way. What started off as a fun car (and it has been) is now falling into the collector car status and I want to continue with a daily driver sports car that isn't a collector car. Overall statement of condition – This 911 SC is extremely reliable and performs well. though it shows its age just about everywhere. The photos you see have a tendency to over-represent the car. It’s easy to make a car look good in photos. Closer inspection reveals that this car is a cosmetic 20-footer. But the car is very reliable and constantly maintained in safe and fun running condition. As mentioned. I drive this car daily and it has been my daily driver for 10 years. Whenever something wore out or failed. a repair or replacement was made and the car was put back into daily service. It is garage kept. Some mechanical and maintenance work was done by me. but more complicated things were performed by a local independent Porsche mechanic. It’s fair to say that this car is high-miles. but it has been faithfully maintained to be a reliable daily driver for street use and these cars do better with regular use than they do sitting. I believe this car to have its original engine and transmission. Engine – This is the 3. 0 CIS. I believe that it has never been opened and is running the factory internals. It has been upgraded (before I bought it) with cam chain tensioners and a pop-off valve. It displays no cold start issues and runs strong to redline but I assume that the compression is not to spec given the miles. It has several oil leaks. I’ve replaced the items in the “triangle” (oil pressure sensor. breather gasket and hose. thermostat. and oil cooler O-rings) and believe the remaining leaks are from the turbo valve cover area. cam chain covers. and oil return line. In any case. it leaves four or five drops every time it is parked. So it is regrettable. but not tragic. This engine has lived on a steady diet of Chevron 91 octane. I change the oil at 5. 00 mile intervals with Valvoline VR1 Racing 20-50 and a Mahle filter. Oil consumption is three quarts between changes. which is an indication that the leaking is not significant and the blow-by is normal. I have chased vacuum leaks and believe them to be resolved however I do not get an RPM change by removing the oil filler cap. I suspect there is unmetered air entering from an airbox crack that I can’t see even during engine removal. The leak is accommodated by a slightly rich mixture setting. I recently purchased a complete CIS (see photo) that has new fuel lines. correct WUR. known good air box (bought in person from a passionate owner and racer who swapped the CIS for PMO) and the complete system has fresh injector sleeves. good injectors. good FD and throttle body. good Aux air valve. and all other parts and pieces that come with the CIS from the air intakes up. I will include this with the sale. If the temp gauge is to be believed (and it has been consistent for 10 years) the car reaches normal operating temp as indicated by the needle settling just at or slightly above the warm-up line and stays glued to that spot in normal driving conditions. When ambient temps are 90 degrees and above. the temp needle rises about 1/8 to 1/4 inch. When rolling slow in traffic and idling for long periods at 90 degrees and above. the needle will hunt the half-way point on the gauge. Resuming normal driving. the needle returns to its traditional indication. I am running a Carrera oil cooler with no fan. I assume a fan would resolve the rise in temp at idle. but I don’t consider “half way” a serious condition so I haven’t bothered. Spirited runs of 20 minutes or more with consistent RPMs of 4K to 5K do not significantly increase temps unless ambient temp is 85 degrees or higher – in which case the gauge indicates half-way. Valve adjustments have been done annually at about 15K to 18K miles. Each time I do a valve adjustment I check the head studs and they have always been secure. The Bosch CDI was rebuilt several years ago. The Lambda box was replaced several years ago. The fuel filter has about 30K to 40K miles on it. The fuel accumulator is about 6 years old. The WUR was replaced with a tested WUR last year. The injector flow is conical and even across all six cylinders. Exhaust – Currently running a straight test pipe to a stainless Dansk muffler. Sounds aggressive and awesome. I have the Catalytic converter on the shelf. It gets installed when it’s time for smog. Just install the CAT and lean the mixture and the car passes every time with no problem. If you like it less aggressive sounding. leave the CAT on and the car purrs just like an SC at idle and is mildly more aggressive when accelerating because of the stainless steel dansk muffler. Transmission – is the 915. I assume it is the original. Annual gear oil changes with Swepco. Previous owner reported losing second and fifth gear on a speed-shift and it was repaired before I bought it. In my tenure. I’ve lost the 2nd gear synchro and that was repaired in 2009 by my mechanic. The car has the Weltmeister short shift kit. and I’ve learned to “ask” for each gear with a slight pause and respect the 915 instead of demanding the next gear. Since I don’t race. I rarely downshift because the brakes are cheap and excellent. I replaced the clutch in 2012 with a Sachs when the throwout bearing fork cracked and I had to replace the fork (with a new unit). The flywheel looked good. Overall. my 915 shifts like a 915. The clutch cable is about 8 years old and I rebuilt the clevis pin and roller at the pedal assembly at that time. My motor mounts and engine mounts are stock and the shifting would likely benefit from new mounts. which aren't a big deal. but I did rebuild the shift coupler bushings in 2008. The CV joints are galled and due for replacement. I noticed the scarring when replacing a torn boot on the driver’s side outboard very recently. I cleaned and repacked the CV assembly with a new boot and made a note that it is time for replacement. There is no slop or knocking. but the wear is evident on inspection. I assume the other side is the same. Electrical – The alternator was replaced professionally and converted to internal regulator in 2012. I can’t remember how old the battery is. but probably 4 or 5 years. The charging and electrical system is healthy and doesn’t give me any problems. Brakes – the car stops straight and true with no vibration. New master cylinder in 2010. Calipers are stock. The hoses go back to 2005 when I put on new rotors and hoses and pads. Inspection shows no swelling or leaking. Rotors (Zimmerman) were replaced again in 2013 along with Porsche factory spec pads. The brakes modulate well. have good response. and are not too dusty. It’s time for a fluid flush. The E-brake needs inspection. as adjustment is difficult and I don’t know the cause. The E-brake does not hold the car except on relatively level ground. I will include new shoes that I have not mounted yet. The front bearings get cleaned and repacked every 25K miles but have not been replaced. The rear bearings were professionally replaced in 2013. Suspension – Factory bushings. Time for a suspension refresh. The car tracks well and drives nicely on the street but likely is soft compared to a fresher suspension. The struts and shocks are Bilstein (green) and were installed around 2008. There is a front strut bar and both sway bars are on the car. The Fuchs are 6 & 7 polished and are in good condition. but would look nicer with paint restoration. The tires are Khumos. Fronts are slightly and evenly worn with plenty of life left. The rears are 50% worn with an even pattern. Chassis – I have never found rust on the car that is cancerous. Every car has some surface rust if you look carefully underneath. but this is an SC that was galvanized and it represents the warm sunny dry climate that it has lived in. There is no rust in the battery area or the front and rear torsion bar areas. Front pan is clear and healthy. There are four or five little door dings or minor dents. but no collision damage. The paint is tired. It is swirl scratched. It waxes up nicely. but still shows its age. When I say that there are several hundred rock chips from the front bumper back to the windshield cowl. I’m not exaggerating. (see photo). It’s time for paint if you’re too proud to drive a car with patina. I used the sunroof for years. but last year as we got to winter the cable trolley broke on the passenger side. The sunroof motor is fine. but it needs a trolley replacement or cable replacement. The sunroof doesn’t leak. The windows are electric and both operate normally. I have extra (new) switches I will include. as one of the three seems to break each year. The flag mirrors are electric. they work. but they need to be re-mounted on the threaded shaft. The windshield was replaced in 2008 with good German glass and a new seal. The doors close solidly with that nice Porsche “ping” but the weather stripping is tired. The duck tail deck lid is fiberglass in black gel coat – manufactured by Getty Design. Bumper Mods – Going after “lightness” I removed the rear bumperettes. The mounting holes are filled. I utilized motorcycle license plate lights. The rub trim has been removed and I crafted reflectors to cover the bumper strut bolts. It’s a clean look. (see photos) The struts have been drilled to release pressure and the rear bumper has been pushed in for a more compact look. This necessitated material removal from both the bumper and the bellows. If you intend to go back to stock. you’ll need everything from the struts out. Front lower valence has the fog light holes filled (welded). The car has the SC front spoiler (very new and in perfect condition) below the lower valence. The front bumper has been pushed in similar to the back that necessitated material removal from the bumper and bellows. The driver side Aux lamp is carbon fiber vinyl wrapped. The passenger side aux lamp is removed (I will include it) and instead has a custom fabricated air inlet scoop that leads to the oil cooler. (see pics). Rear reflector Mod– The rear reflector bar deteriorated several years ago so I fabricated a Plexiglas replacement that is wrapped in carbon fiber look vinyl and a PORSCHE decal applied to it. (See pics). Climate Control – The AC system is completely removed for “lightness” and I no longer have any of the parts. I was on a “weight saving” mission and the system wasn’t performing. so it’s gone. The heater fan has been removed from the engine compartment and the warm air port on the engine is blocked with a cap to retain cooling. For heat. I recommend a back-date engine tin job and some fresh hoses. Interior – Features high bolster leather sport seats and steering wheel that I was told came from a 930S. I can’t verify that. but they are Porsche seats in leather. They are in good overall condition. but both show rub wear that would necessitate a side panel replacement. (see pics). They are very comfortable and supportive. The steering wheel shows wear. but I do love the grip and size. The carpet is original and worn but not too embarassing. The package self upholstery is sun baked and tender. The rear seats are in good shape and have been removed for lightness but I will include them. The driver’s door needs a “open” handle replacement. For now I’ve rigged a toggle that works like the RS interior style. Dash cover (plastic) is cracked. Glove box is good. Clock works perfectly. Oil level indicator is erratic and not to be trusted. Horn is non-operational. All interior lights function normally. Headliner is good. The radio is gone and I’ve rigged just the radio face as a block-off. The speakers are gone (lightness) but the grill faces remain to cover the door panel holes. The power antenna is gone. Turn indicators and windshield wiper (and delay) and high-beam all are in good working order. A JWEST headlight relay is installed. As mentioned. the fogs are gone but the switch remains. The rear defroster doesn’t work. The cig lighter works. I’ve installed a 3rd brake light that is subtle but effective. It will be easy to de-install if you don’t like it. The car is weather tight in the rain. Other things to note – The spare tire is gone for lightness– I have never had a flat but would call AAA if I did. I will include the air pump. The tool kit is present and mostly accounted for. I will also include my inventory of extra parts – it’s not large but there are fuses and hood struts and things that are nice to have. If you want a 10 year collection of Excellence Magazine – it’s yours with the car. Summary – If you’re looking for an investment. these cars continue to appreciate and that is likely to be the case for years to come. The SC is the last of the “simple” air-cooled Porsches. They are reliable. rust free. perform well. and parts are attainable. Later models got more horsepower but also gained weight and complexity. This car is not a good candidate for a collector. There is too much work to do and a lower mile clean example is a better place to start. But if you’re handy and would enjoy a nice example to drive and improve or simply restore and enjoy – this daily driver would be a great pick. If you want to build a hot-rod or backdate a car – this is a good pick. If you want a daily driver and don’t mind the patina. then this car is ready to go. Simply plan on basic maintenance and occasional parts replacement as things wear out. That’s what I’ve done for 10 years with daily enjoyment and no regrets.